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Cure For The Common Crimp 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, 2003
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 2,619
Submitted By: Ben Schmitt on Jan 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Mirthe on the different start.

Description 

About 40 feet right of Da Fly on the next buttress with an overhanging bulge at mid height, this route starts on red rock with an obvious, chalked jug at the first bolt. It follows a medium-sized, left-facing dihedral to a hands off ledge (5.11) then fires up well protected blocky stone to the overhang. The crux (V6 or 7) involves pinches, two crimps and a sloper, all a wonderful break from the technical tweakiness that usually defines Shelf Road. Pull the crux and enjoy beautiful 5.10 climbing to the chains (even the resemblence of a tufa at the top!) all in all fun movement with a hard hitting crux and no hands rests in between.

Location 

This is 40 feet right of Da Fly (5.13a) on the next buttress with a small, overhanging roof at mid-height.

Protection 

Bring 14 quickdraws and a boulderer's mindset.


Photos of Cure For The Common Crimp Slideshow Add Photo
Lane getting into the tough stuff.
Lane getting into the tough stuff.
Mirthe getting her 1st 13.
Mirthe getting her 1st 13.
About to start the crux moves.
About to start the crux moves.

Comments on Cure For The Common Crimp Add Comment
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By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Apr 8, 2011

Nice to see "The Cure" getting some attention. No surprise about the loose rock, I probably cleaned a few hundred pounds of loose crap off it when first equipping it in 2002. Many thanks to John Musso & Chris Lesher for all the help putting it together, bolting, belaying, cleaning, yada yada. 12d/13a probably a more apt concensus, but splitting hairs, no? Ah, the subjectivity of it all. :~)

Curious how folks are taking on the super cool crack that follows the crux?

FA: Rick Thompson, 2003.
By yodi
Mar 11, 2012

I was confused which way to go around crux. After a "hands off ledge", there is a split just below the bulge. I went to the rIght side with 3-4 fixed draws around the crux (felt more direct to the top). When I looked at the left there is a bolted line. Is this route supposed to go left?
By Ben Schmitt
Mar 16, 2012

The new guidebook gives misdirection as to what Cure is supposed to do. The right route via the fixed draws is an open 5.14 project I bolted and have been working on for a while, whereas Cure goes left from the ledge. How'd the project feel? The draws were intended to get potential suitors on the route, as hanging them mid crux is extremely difficult. They are not perma draws (or abandoned booty), just to be used until the route is finished then I will take them down.
By yodi
Mar 21, 2012

Thanks for the info! I shut down at two decent undercling holds (it is glued and probably right before crux section begins). I was trying to figure out how to use upper left, crimpy sidepull and right-side, small slot. I felt I need to get strong crimp for sure. Guess that is what the hard climbing in Shelf requires. I am new to Shelf Road, and wanted to see how I feel on 5.13ish climb there. Good luck with the project!