Cupcake Corner WI4-5 M5
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| Type: | Sport, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | WI4+ M5+ [details] |
| FA: | David Roetzel |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on Dec 9, 2007 |
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Working the sweet sweet Cupcake Corner.
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Description This is one of the few moderate lines in the Designator/Fang Amphitheatre. Thanks from the low-end mixed climbers, Dave! Follow 4 bolts up a corner with a decent number of great, dry tool placements. Do a funky mantle-ish/pullup onto a ledge. Moving past the 5th bolt seems funky and that apparent V-slot isn't as good as it seems. There are a couple holds that work better as hand holds than dry tool placements just before the 6th bolt. Moving up to the anchors varies from thin to easy ice up to a 2 bolt anchor. As mentioned below in a comment, this rock is relatively fresh and will shed in quantity. It does make for different experiences on the same route over time.
Location This is just to the right of Little Thang/Frigid Inseminator & left of the red tagged project (Jack?).
Protection 6 bolts, 2 bolts Fixe Rap Ring anchor (shared with Little Thang/Frigid Inseminator).
BETA PHOTO: Start here.
| Opening moves. Photo by Sabrina.
| BETA PHOTO: Nearing the crux before heading up and left to the...
| Climbers on Cupcake Corner.
| Carl Pluim connecting the ice from the Frigid Cupc...
| Very fun climb.
| Getting on the ice
| A good perspective with the fang forming up on Feb...
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| Comments on Cupcake Corner |
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By Daniel Battin From: Green Mtn. Falls, CO Dec 14, 2007
| This route is a good one for scraping the points around first thing in the morning. It is still getting a little cleaning though. Thanks again Dave |
By Taylor-B. From: CO & AK Jan 14, 2011
| As of 2011, this thing is still exfoliating BIG chunks of rock. The nice thing though is every time you climb it, it is like climbing a new route. |
By Chris Plesko From: Westminster, CO Mar 2, 2011 rating: WI4 M5
| Good holds for clipping the 6th bolt, but the best one is a loose toaster. Pull down, not out, and make sure your belayer is awake! |
By Chris Plesko From: Westminster, CO Jan 8, 2012 rating: WI4 M5
| A HUGE piece of the lower roof fell out sometime in the last 2 weeks. The crux at the 2nd bolt is different but not much harder. |
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