This route can be used as a variation to the West Buttress overhang. It starts with a perfect hand crack in a left-facing flake and opens up to 4-4.5" that makes for an easy layback. The crux is half way up the crack. After the crack, the route traverses right to a pin and then up diagonally left followed by two more pins to the Crow's Nest. The "S" really only comes into play after the traverse section. The 11a section (the crack) can be sewn up.
We used double ropes and 2' slings on almost every piece to reduce rope drag.
This route starts on the North side of the Maiden downhill and left of the Direct North Face route.
Up to #4 Camalot. 3 pins. Eye bolt at the Crow's Nest.
|By John Parnigoni|
From: Denver, CO
Jun 4, 2006
The crux section is short and fun. If your good at jamming cracks, you'll find this to be an easier 11.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
It is not even hard for 5.10...
11a routes are hard, but this route is not. As my partner, who on-sighted it said: "That could go 5.9 in Vedauvoo." The R-part is not going through the roof on P2, it is getting to the right, to join it.
|By James Beissel|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2007
I've also heard that guy say "Nothing you can fit your whole hand inside can possibly be harder than 5.9" as well, so you might want to take that with a grain of salt.