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 ADVANCED
The Maiden
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belladonna T 
Cunning Stunt T 
Direct North Face T 
Dream Street Rose T 
East Ridge T 
Eye Of the Storm T 
Gates of Galas T,TR 
Hasta La Hueco T,S 
Kor-Dalke Route T 
North Face T 
South Crack T 
South Face T 
Southern Seas, The TR 
West Overhang T 
Unsorted Routes:

Cunning Stunt 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Erickson and Nancy McNeil
Page Views: 1,089
Submitted By: John Parnigoni on Jun 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Stunning indeed.

Photo: Kuba Musial, August 2014.
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route can be used as a variation to the West Buttress overhang. It starts with a perfect hand crack in a left-facing flake and opens up to 4-4.5" that makes for an easy layback. The crux is half way up the crack. After the crack, the route traverses right to a pin and then up diagonally left followed by two more pins to the Crow's Nest. The "S" really only comes into play after the traverse section. The 11a section (the crack) can be sewn up.
We used double ropes and 2' slings on almost every piece to reduce rope drag.


Location 

This route starts on the North side of the Maiden downhill and left of the Direct North Face route.


Protection 

Up to #4 Camalot. 3 pins. Eye bolt at the Crow's Nest.



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By John Parnigoni
From: Denver, CO
Jun 4, 2006

The crux section is short and fun. If your good at jamming cracks, you'll find this to be an easier 11.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

It is not even hard for 5.10...
11a routes are hard, but this route is not. As my partner, who on-sighted it said: "That could go 5.9 in Vedauvoo." The R-part is not going through the roof on P2, it is getting to the right, to join it.

By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2007

I've also heard that guy say "Nothing you can fit your whole hand inside can possibly be harder than 5.9" as well, so you might want to take that with a grain of salt.