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Cunning Stunt 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Greg Child, Greg Collum
Season: Whenever it's dry
Page Views: 2,868
Submitted By: jonah on Feb 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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BETA PHOTO: Sunny morning on Cunning Stunt

Description 

The second bolted line to the right of the tunnel, identifiable by the fixed pin at the start. Follows a discontinuous line of flakes up a steep face. The crux comes about halfway up at a slabby reach move before getting into a juggy flake that leads to easier climbing above. Sustained, fun, thought provoking climbing. It is exposed and dries quickly, and is climbable in low temps.


Protection 

Bomber new bolts and one fixed pin. Chains at the top.



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By jonah
Mar 13, 2006

The second bolt (third fixed piece, including the pin) is bad. THe stud spins in the hole! Anybody feel like doing a public service?

I think the thing must've been over-torqued when it was placed, because it is a new bolt. Bummer.

By Ryan Triplett
Mar 20, 2006

The route also has a 20-25 foot extension that is fun climbing, however the rock is less than perfect, in fact a bit rotten in places. It climbs the obvious prow (in a contrived way) standing above the first anchors, probably around .10a

By jonah
Mar 20, 2006

Though the above-mentioned bolt needs to be replaced, you can place a yellow metolius in the flake to its left. Don't fall too hard, though. It would suck to have that flake blow.

By 8jimi8
Sep 3, 2006

man this route is absolutely delectable. exquisite technique.
ultra classic must do route.

By Eric8
From: Framingham
Nov 2, 2007

awesome route, soft for an index 10d

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 29, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

It also might be worth noting that if you blow the second clip, you would come damn near close to hitting the deck, if not hitting it. However, the moves to the second clip, though a little thought provoking, are not hard. A great route with a killer crux sequence.

By kimmo
Sep 5, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

i think this line was originally climbed with maybe just one bolt.

it climbs much better as a trad line, and really should be free of all bolts.

By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 11, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A tcu or alien can protect the moves below the fixed pin, but be aware that the block you are placing it behind is less than solid. If you take up a #.4 Camelot, you can get a bomber piece in a slot around to the right once you move above the pin (before the first bolt).

If you are short, taking the "ramp" variation from the bolt below the crux is worth considering: Step left to gain a small shelf for your hands, smear the feet, then reach straight up to for a small horizontal slot rather than going for the reachy hold straight up the shallow corner to the right of the bolt.

A tiny tcu can be placed in the horizontal seam below the crux bolt (under the arch) if you aren't sure you can reach the bolt without some effort. It's touch of a stretch for me --I'm 5' 1"-- but it shouldn't be a problem for most folks.

By Allison Herrington
From: Leavenworth
Sep 1, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This climb is fun and captivating. An Index classic at the Country.

I would discourage one from placing a TCU or alien behind the block below the pin. That large block is loose and flexes if you bounce test the piece (I did this on top rope).

You can sling the flake to protect between the pin and the 1st bolt.

By Chris C
From: Seattle, Wa
Sep 1, 2013

Felt hard for the grade. Had 2 distinct cruxes with good rests right before. Awesome climb that i'm looking forward to repeating.