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Routes in (9) Above the Waves
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BA Insanity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cat's Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Climax T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cold Sushi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cunning Linguist T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dangerous Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Doublethink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fillet Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gold Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gold Member T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Golden Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Goldline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Happy Endings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lap Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Let's Do The Trad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost Horizon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Love You Long Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Ocean's Eleven T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Orange Juice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pearl Necklace T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Psycho Killer T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rastafarian Seabirds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snake Alley T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tanz en Den Mai T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Tofu Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Matt Robertson, 7/04 |
| Page Views: | 932 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on May 7, 2013 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Description
This is one of Long Dong's most classic thin cracks. Start at the main deck of the Cathouse, just outside the cave. Climb the slighty overhanging south-facing wall split by horizontals to the obvious ledge above. The challenges start early, with tricky protection and strenuous laybacking to the first small ledge. Mantel up, then scramble through easier ground as the crack shrinks up to the big middle ledge. Sharp holds and balancy moves get you off this ledge to some slopey horizontals. A final section of laybacking gains you some positive face holds. A short series of mantels and you are at the rappel ledge.
BEWARE! Wasps have made a nest (6/1/13) in one of the horizontals and stung someone. It was very minor, but better safe than sorry.
BEWARE! Wasps have made a nest (6/1/13) in one of the horizontals and stung someone. It was very minor, but better safe than sorry.
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