Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Brad Watson (TR) 11/24/91 of Bruce Morris RT |
Page Views: | 5,539 total · 31/month |
Shared By: | Daniel Trugman on Oct 30, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
An interesting name for an interesting route.
Start with an intriguing 5.10ish slab move that is well protected by a bolt (this is supposed to be the crux...). After a brief crack section (stoppers useful), you reach the base of the intimidating chimney. You can skip this first part by scrambling up to the base of the chimney from the right.
The chimney is reportedly 5.8 if you are good at these types of "ooze moves". It felt hard to me. Pro is tricky but it's all there.
Start with an intriguing 5.10ish slab move that is well protected by a bolt (this is supposed to be the crux...). After a brief crack section (stoppers useful), you reach the base of the intimidating chimney. You can skip this first part by scrambling up to the base of the chimney from the right.
The chimney is reportedly 5.8 if you are good at these types of "ooze moves". It felt hard to me. Pro is tricky but it's all there.
Photos
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