The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This is a spectacular line in between the South and Central towers. This climb offers everything from RP-sized crack climbing to an exposed arete to offwidth.
P1. Start on a ledge about 10 feet off the ground. Take the L-facing corner. The crack to the left is Captain Beyond (10c). Start with the crux, about 10 feet into the climb. Place a No. 2 and/or 3 RP (quite bomber, actually), then stem and smear your way up to a rest. This pitch follows the dihedral system for about 115 feet to an obvious ledge.
P2. For the second pitch, continue up the dihedral, pull a fun lieback bulge, then stay R in the dihedral through an offwidth section. A #4 Camalot could be used here, but it's easy going and a only a short offwidth section. Finish at a tree with some slings at another ledge. This pitch is about 110ft. also.
DESCENT: Option 1: Make a rap back to a ledge with an old sling around a flake and some pitons for an anchor, then make a DOUBLE rope rap down from here. Option 2: If you only have one rope, make 4 single rope raps from stations in between the North and Central towers. (You'll have to traverse around the back side of the Central tower to the West to get there.)
Full stoppers (incl. RPs) Friends from #0.5-#3, and a #4 Camalot (optional). Twin ropes are preferrable. About 10 runners and 3 shoulder slings with biners for these long pitches.
I'm not sure about traversing around the back side of the Central tower, it was not obvious to me where to go...but you can make it down following the route with one rope instead of double ropes: at the pin/flake belay rap (this piece of work left me wanting for two sport-route-bomber-bolts and how!) down right (as you look down, toward the start of Captain Beyond) there is a third rap station around a massive horn. It's a little tricky to get to, a little spicey when pulling the rope (I hope your karma is good) and I would imagine very annoying if someone was actually trying to climb the route. Annoying to the climbers that is! Next time I want to go with someone who knows the way around the back side to the "traditional" rappel route.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 12, 2002
Done the back side descent to the rappel stations. Not obvious, but more traversing and more down and more up climbing than you might expect does get you there. Use your instincts. It is never more than 5.5 to get off. I would recommend staying roped up. By the way, not all the rappel points of the RR are beautiful.
I think the rap station at the "massive horn" referred to in a previous comment seems more accurately described as a "man-sized detached flake swaddled in bleached webbing". That is, if it's the collection of manky old webbing round a leaning/perched 5 ft x 3 ft block, straight up from the crack that P1 of Cpt. Beyond climbs, to the left of P1 of Culp's. The flake ensemble _is_ "backed up" by a stopper and wedged webbing knot up higher (to hold the flake up?).We saw it from the ground, and figgered it would make an easy end for doing only p1 of Culp's Fault (not knowing what was at the top of P1). I don't recommend this course. The "horn" seems not long for the cliff. But that's just, like, my opinion, man. Anyway, the stopper has a biner, and the webbing-knot a rap ring, so we rapped off that. If we had had some webbing (duh!), we'd have placed another stopper, and made something a bit more inspiring. just a head's up.
By Chris Perkins From: Avon, Colorado Aug 19, 2008 rating: 5.8-5b16VI-14VS 4c
The rap stations looked the same from 5 years ago. Take webbing and a knife and clean it up. We replaced as many pieces as we could.
Climbed at Mickey Mouse Wall for the 1st time yesterday and led this climb. Fun and varied route. The crux on P1 felt more like a 5.9. Thin finger slots, tenuous feet to get to better ground. For descending, we 1st tried walking over to the raps between the north and central towers. But, it seemed like a pain to get there so we instead rapped down close to Culp's Fault and had to keep traversing to the east to find rap stations. But, it worked out with one rope.
Climbed this route last weekend, and it turned into somewhat of an epic. Just a heads up to anyone wanting to rap down the route between the two towers: give yourself lots of extra time. We roped up again for safety, and all in all, it took us a lot longer to traverse the back and rap down than to actually climb the route. We reached the base as night fell. Good thing we brought our "just in case" headlamp! It all would've been fine if we hadn't started the approach at noon on an October day. But again, the notification is simply that reaching the rap anchors is time consuming.