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By Paul-B
Oct 10, 2012
Flakes of Wrath
I'm interested in trying Culp-Bossier this weekend. Looking for a partner, bonus if you've done it before. I'm somewhat new to trad, this will be my longest real trad climb, but I feel confident at that grade. Let me know if you're interested!

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By Paul-B
Oct 10, 2012
Flakes of Wrath
This obviously will hinge on whether the area is still closed for the fires this weekend.

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By Wally
From Denver
Oct 10, 2012
Brrrrrrrr.

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By TheBirdman
From Eldorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 10, 2012
Although I found the climbing to be generally easy and the rock quality exceptional, I think I got lucky. I have heard some horror stories about how easy it is to get off route onto much more difficult and much less quality rock. That fact combined with how late it is in the season would give me pause for a first alpine climb. Not trying to discourage you, but definitely take the time to map out the route, be prepared, and have a plan to back off just in case.

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By Tits McGee
From Boulder, CO
Oct 10, 2012
How I Send
North Facing Rock this time of year will make for shivering belays and painful hands.

Alpine Climbing is about suffering, so you should have a great "Alpine" Day.

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By Martin le Roux
From Superior, CO
Oct 10, 2012
Stairway to Heaven
You've seen the RMNP weather forecast, right?

Saturday A 50 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 35. Windy.
Saturday Night A slight chance of snow showers. Partly cloudy, with a low around 22. Breezy.
Sunday A slight chance of snow showers. Mostly sunny, with a high near 39. Breezy.

Maybe I'm just a wimp, but I wouldn't want to try a 9-pitch north-facing climb in those conditions.

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By Ryan N
From Palo Alto
Oct 10, 2012
RJN
Not to pry too much, but as a first long trad lead I wouldn't pick that route or any other alpine route in RMNP. Though the approach is short by park standards it's going to require an early alpine start. Also with any kind of low visibility i.e. Clouds or snow finding the start and staying on route is going to be the crux of the day. Get on some long stuff in Eldo or Boulder canyon before you hit up the park. I suggest one of the spurs or something in lumpy to get some longer multipitch experience. Good luck though.

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By Paul-B
Oct 10, 2012
Flakes of Wrath
I appreciate the advice. It's not my first long alpine climb, I've done a few, such as lone eagle. Done many alpine starts for mountaineering, but it would definitely be my most ambitious rock climb to this point. Sounds like I should stick to lower elevation stuff and give it a shot next spring. Thanks for the input.

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By Paul-B
Oct 10, 2012
Flakes of Wrath
On that note, are there any good 'alpine-esque' climbs that are long, fun, moderate grade, and more palatable this time of year that you would recommend?

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By Dankasaurus
From Lyons, CO
Oct 10, 2012
Fun long moderates:

Kor's Flake (expert, get beta) and Mainliner are both good practice for the park I suppose. Lots of routes at Lumpy, actually: Fantasy Ridge will help with runouts and routefinding and is not very dangerous, Pear Buttress is fun, long, moderate, and crowded. Melvin's Wheel is relatively straightforward.


Green Spur and Yellow Spur were already mentioned.

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By Vaughne
Oct 10, 2012
Paul-B wrote:
On that note, are there any good 'alpine-esque' climbs that are long, fun, moderate grade, and more palatable this time of year that you would recommend?


The first flatiron

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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Oct 10, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.
Dankasaurus wrote:
Fun long moderates: Kor's Flake (expert, get beta) and Mainliner are both good practice for the park I suppose. Lots of routes at Lumpy, actually: Fantasy Ridge will help with runouts and routefinding and is not very dangerous, Pear Buttress is fun, long, moderate, and crowded. Melvin's Wheel is relatively straightforward.


Being able to do 2-3 routes on Sundance or the Book in a day would be a good test for the Culp-Bossier. Then remember you're going to be a few thousand feet higher and facing the opposite direction (north) on the C-B. You'd probably have more fun doing a couple, three of the routes Dank mentioned in a day, unless you prefer to suffer a little/lot as some people do.

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By TheBirdman
From Eldorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 10, 2012
First flatiron is a good suggestion, albeit sparse on protection. Furthermore, the park is burning apparently...dailycamera.com/news/ci_217403...

Don't know how that would affect Hallet or any of the other alpine climbs, but it would appear to make things more difficult.

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By Kenan
Oct 10, 2012
Shelf Rd
A North-facing alpine rock route in the park would be a sufferfest this weekend for sure (and for the rest of the season for most folks really). Climbing technical multipitch rock in sub 40F temps in the shade with wind is c...oooo..oo..oo...lll..d.ddddd *shudders*

Dankasaurus wrote:
Fun long moderates: Kor's Flake (expert, get beta) and Mainliner are both good practice for the park I suppose. Lots of routes at Lumpy, actually: Fantasy Ridge will help with runouts and routefinding and is not very dangerous, Pear Buttress is fun, long, moderate, and crowded. Melvin's Wheel is relatively straightforward. Green Spur and Yellow Spur were already mentioned.


+1 to these suggestions, and especially the Lumpy routes (Mainliner, Pear Butt) as they are South Facing (sunny) so you still have some climbing season left.

As far as Eldo, Gambit might be a good choice as it's kinda adventurous being at the top of ShirtTail peak (highest point in Eldo) and also generally sunny. Handcracker Direct is another classic...

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By ddriver
From SLC
Oct 11, 2012
The walk to Sundance is highly recommended. Besides Mainliner and Kor's Flake, I can also recommend Sidetrack and the Nose as being great routes, but that little cliff is stacked.

Culp-Bossier is not so long or serious that you need to be able to do multiple routes on Sundance in a day. Approach times are pretty similar.

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By Rodger Raubach
Oct 11, 2012
Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; 1985 ascent.
Don't overlook the Green Slab Direct at 5.9 and 4-5 pitches. The climb plus descent should give you a semi-alpine experience. I did the route under full winter conditions, many years ago. (Snow plastered to the wall, falling ice, etc.).

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By Greg D
From Here
Oct 12, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />
Interesting suggestions.

The flatirons are nothing like the culp bossier. If you are competent at 5.8 you can run up the flatirons after work and still make happy hour.

Green slab direct? Hmmm. 20 minutes from the parking lot. 15 minute walk off. Strike two!

Have people recommending other routes actually been on culp bossier. Not that it is hard, but some of these recommendations are not even close.

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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Oct 12, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl
Greg D wrote:
Interesting suggestions. The flatirons are nothing like the culp bossier. If you are competent at 5.8 you can run up the flatirons after work and still make happy hour. Green slab direct? Hmmm. 20 minutes from the parking lot. 15 minute walk off. Strike two! Have people recommending other routes actually been on culp bossier. Not that it is hard, but some of these recommendations are not even close.


Obviously the suggestions that have been stated are not close. But CB is an alpine rock route and since the alpine rock season is over, these are comparable considering the circumstances. And considering that the OP has posted on climbing a north facing alpine route in October, these are friendly suggestions that would hopefully steer him in the right direction for when the time is right for routes on Hallett.

Of course the 1st Flatiron is not an alpine rock route, but it's pretty close to the same length as routes on Hallett thus making it a perfectly logical suggestion. Moreover routes recommended on Sundance are also logical suggestions. Although they fall short in length the approach to Sundance makes up for this and is a good simulator to the approach to Hallett.

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By Greg D
From Here
Oct 12, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />
Andy Hansen wrote:
Of course the 1st Flatiron is not an alpine rock route, but it's pretty close to the same length as routes on Hallett thus making it a perfectly logical suggestion.


No, its not.

Lets see, super solid rock, other climbers everywhere, free soloist blowing by you, getting off route is no big deal, single rappel which is easy to find, 8000ft elevation instead of 12000ft, 20 minutes back to the car. Shall I go on.



Andy Hansen wrote:
Moreover routes recommended on Sundance are also logical suggestions. Although they fall short in length the approach to Sundance makes up for this and is a good simulator to the approach to Hallett.


I did not disagree.

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By Snoopy
Oct 12, 2012
+1 for sundance

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By ddriver
From SLC
Oct 12, 2012
austin luper wrote:
+1 for sundance


Being "new to trad," the OP would be advised to follow a more logical progression in obtaining skill sets and exposure. Climb some Lumpy routes and maybe Notchtop or the Grepon first, and you'll be much better prepared for Hallets, not that it's any big deal, but...

Its best to learn the ropes in a more controlled situation, i.e. closer to the ground/road and in the sun.

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By Andy Novak
From Golden, Co
Oct 12, 2012
Living the High Life.
Tammy Payne wrote:
If you're feeling froggy head to Black Canyon in Gunnison and hit Escape Artist.


I hope you're not serious.

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By Vaughne
Oct 12, 2012
Greg D wrote:
Interesting suggestions. The flatirons are nothing like the culp bossier. If you are competent at 5.8 you can run up the flatirons after work and still make happy hour. Green slab direct? Hmmm. 20 minutes from the parking lot. 15 minute walk off. Strike two! Have people recommending other routes actually been on culp bossier. Not that it is hard, but some of these recommendations are not even close.

I suggested the first flatiron because it is pretty close to the length of C-B, it is runout, and you can climb anywhere as long as you are close to the route. Those attributes make it similar, other attributes make it different. You're a cotton headed ninny muggin.

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By Rick Blair
From Denver
Oct 12, 2012
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!
Vaughne wrote:
You're a cotton headed ninny muggin.


I love "Elf".

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By Brent Butler
From Boulder, CO
Oct 12, 2012
profile pic.
Greg D wrote:
No, its not. Lets see, super solid rock, other climbers everywhere, free soloist blowing by you, getting off route is no big deal, single rappel which is easy to find, 8000ft elevation instead of 12000ft, 20 minutes back to the car. Shall I go on. I did not disagree.



Getting off route = no big deal? yeah thats the culp for ya.
single easy to find rappel? ok, well I guess the clup has two easy to find rappels.
20 minutes back to the car? once again you are correct, the culp might take an hour.

I understand your point, that the culp is more difficult and committing. I just get tired of the overly hyped danger and intensity of alpine rock climbing.

I also would support the suggestion for the black canyon. No, the approach is nothing like an alpine climb, but the climbing is comparable. I think i would suggest leisure climb or maiden voyage before getting on escape artist.

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By Shane Zentner
From Colorado
Oct 12, 2012
The Sun with Pikes Peak in the distance.  <br />South Platte valley, Fall 2010
Anything in the park can be epic if you meander off route, especially in October on Hallet Peak. Try something different in a less committing environment up to ten pitches.

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