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 ADVANCED
Moldy Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cul de Sac Exit T 
Cul-de-Sac T 
Fibula Cracks TR 
Fungus TR 
Hales Corner TR 
Horticulture T,TR 
Lichen T 
Mother of Pearl T 
Nine-Minus T,TR 
Roofus T,TR 
Tibia Crack T,TR 
Verticulture T,TR 

Cul-de-Sac 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: First Lead: Jim Erickson
Page Views: 656
Submitted By: Anonymous on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Ben's foot skates

Description 

Locate the 3 foot roof on moldy buttress, Cul-de-Sac follows the inside corner to the roof exiting to the right and up. The Crux is definitely at the roof, hike your feet up and commit to the move!

Protection 

Small wires up to the roof and mid sized nuts/hexes after the roof


Photos of Cul-de-Sac Slideshow Add Photo
Mother of Pearl (114), Cul-De-Sac (115), Fibula Cracks (116), and Tibia Crack (117)
BETA PHOTO: Mother of Pearl (114), Cul-De-Sac (115), Fibula Cr...
Dave, workin' the crux
Dave, workin' the crux
As seen from the bottom.
BETA PHOTO: As seen from the bottom.
Alex headed up to clean the anchor at the end of the day
Alex headed up to clean the anchor at the end of t...

Comments on Cul-de-Sac Add Comment
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By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Oct 12, 2002

Instead of wimping out when you get to the ledge after the roof by heading up and right along the path of least resistance, try climbing the face directly adjacent to the corner (to your left). It's very slopey, but there's a sequence that makes it about 5.8+. I won't give it away, you'll have to figure it out. It involves a semi-dyno.
By Don LaBelle
Mar 18, 2003

Loved the route good rating.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 21, 2003

Good route, scary lead. Despite the casual appearance of the corner, the holds and the pro do not offer themselves up easily. Sloping quartzite, shitty pro--the makings of a memorable lead experience. Though, don't you feel like a total hero when you latch that jug above the roof, with the rope hanging in a lazy, unbroken arc down to the fixed nut below the crux? Actually, it kind of makes you forget all the grovelling, shaking, and oaths to never do this again. On second thought: great route, awesome lead.
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Aug 18, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was my first 5.8 at the Park back in 87, and it's still my favorite.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 13, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

If you are tall enough, you can do the crux move statically ... if only I could remember how! Paste your feet high and stem.

Gear at the crux is solid, its just somewhere around your shins or ankles. The gear on the upper wall is more tenuous - scramble a couple of moves up the gully, the go back out left. For *that* this route deserves a PG/R rating.
By Tradoholic
May 6, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

"R" rated I would say with committing mantle move with so-so small gear at your feet. A fall would be a slammer in to the dihedral.
By Shane Wallace
Jul 21, 2014

Commit to the move is right! I tried easing up to it and would lose balance. Just go for it!