Cul de Sac Exit 

See regular Cul de Sac for other comments pertaining to the Exit. A standout beautiful line.

Yes, heavy "R" rating indeed. From the looks of it you would think you can get a nice piece to protect the mantle over the roof, wrong. Blowing the mantle comes with a very possible decking. Good thing that isn't the crux.
When standing on the ledge of the roof I buried a #1 Ballnut in the right hand seam and two sketchy micro cams in the left seam. I didn't see this nut placement that's talked about.
A reachy move is the crux and then it follows the arete, again runout unless you have a ballnut or two left for a small seam. It's not over until you get to a wider seam with a good cam placement.
Long live trad climbing.

Hey Nick, placing the #2 wire for me was the crux move. I had to get this marginal stance, and then fish the thing in sort of back handed, and it would only go in with the right micro flick of the wrist. Specialty gear for sure, but this little wire was the reason I felt I could do the thing without dying. Seth and I both found/used this placement.