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Animal World
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Animal Instinct S 
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Animal Riots Activist S 
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Automatic Choke T,TR 
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Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 
Blockhead S 
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 
Closer To God S 
Cold Snap T 
Crack Corner T 
Cujo Tranquilizer 
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 
Dihedral T,TR 
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Fifth Destiny, The S 
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Global Gorilla S 
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Old Dihedral T 
Piles of Trials S 
Pit Bull Prowser S 
Reversal Roof S 
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Split Personality S 
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Talking Out Of Turn S 
Threshold Of A Dream S 
Triple Play T,S 
Tuesday Afternoon S 
Unfamiliar Strangers S 
We Don't Do Crack T 
Wine and Roses T 

Cujo Tranquilizer 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  , 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Rolofson, Miller, Trout
Page Views: 2,147
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Starts just right of Animal Magnetism. The pitch has two distinct sections: a desperate bulge from bolts 2-4 and a slab/face/arete the rest of the way. The first section seems a lot harder than most (all?) Boulder Canyon 12a's I have done -- might be rated 12a in Eldo. The rest of the climb is a long stretch of countiously engaging (5.10 to easy 5.11) climbing on the slab/face with a couple of moves back and forth across the arete. The upper part is quite good on its own, worth pulling on the 3rd and 4th bolts to get to (as I did). Note for those allergic to pegmatite, the upper section contains some sections thereof. The route leans to the right, so the lower off ends up well uphill of the start, at the start of Cujo Tranquilizer, alleviating any worries about descending with a 60 meter rope. The anchors are shared with Cujo Traquilizer pitch 1, creating top rope possiblities.

Protection 

17-18 bolts + 2 anchors.


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By Joe Collins
Jul 11, 2002

A cool variation to this pulls the 12a crux then traverses left into Animal Magnetism... I think the guide calls in Cujo Magnetism or something like that. The crux is very technical and thin but didn't feel any harder than 12a to me.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 9, 2003
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Seemed hard for 12a in the opening. Good hands in the lay-away start, but marginal smears for the feet. After the fourth clip things settle down to thin, thoughtful climbing in a laboratory safe environment. The best feature is probably its length. A 60 meter cord just drops you back to the base.
By TBD
Aug 16, 2004

I thought this climb was very high quality. The start is tough, thin, and the feet are tricky. There was at least one 11+ section on the slab, unless I missed something. This climb requires a lot of draws, 19 including two for the anchor. A 70 M rope is helpful if you don't have someone to follow the route to clean the draws.
By Mark Ferguson
May 22, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A Boulder Canyon route that actually feels hard for the grade. I think the crux start is very difficult and hard for the onsight. Great climb, one of the best 12-s in B Canyon.
By Elijah Flenner
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Maybe it was the specific day I was on this route, but I found it much harder than 12a compared to the other 12a's and 12b's in the area. Harder than Animal Riots Activist; harder than the second pitch of Global Gorilla, little harder than Piles of Trials, much harder than Days of Future Passed (which might not be 12a). Maybe I'll change my mind on the grade after a second go, but for now I sticking with harder than 12a, and a hard 12b.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
May 9, 2013

Not 12a, but call it whatever you want. The first crux was a burly little section. Great route though with lots of varied climbing. I'm impressed. I overlooked this route every time I went to the upper tier but was surprised that it climbed as good as all the 4 star classics around it. Do it!
By Mike Humphries
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 27, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

The slab climbing on this rig is highly unique. I found myself getting pumped out due to the continuous squeezing and sidepulling while using crappy feet. While the intial crux is certainly harder on a move by move basis, I felt unlocking the 40 ft of continuous slab with a final 12a section was the true crux for me.