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Crystal Staircase 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Stuemke, 1995
Page Views: 827
Submitted By: joell on Jul 19, 2004
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This photo shows the rope line for Crystal Stairca...

Description 

Crystal Staircase is on the right edge of the Vestry, to the right of Monastic Groove.

Crystal Staircase is an enjoyable mid grade 5.7. The first few bolts are quick to reach, then after bolt 5 it becomes runout up to the anchors, although the risk of fall is much lower since the route mellows greatly.

There are no anchors specifically for this route. You need to keep climbing up to the very top of the Vestry, then you'll see the anchors for Stand Up Comedy at the far side of the top. Use these to belay up your partner. The views of the Devil's Gulch and the Monastery are fantastic from atop the Vestry, and it is a huge area up there.

To exit the route you have many choices: 1) bring up a second rope for a dual rope rappel, 2) rap down Stand Up Comedy on the opposite side of the Vestry then walk back through the Inner Sanctum to return to the start, 3) have the second head directly to the anchors at the top of Abbott Arete, clip in, then put the leader on belay to get down to these anchors. They are readily visible when at the anchors atop the Vestry. From here it is a single 60 meter rope rap to the flake at the base of Monastic Groove and Southern Hospitality. #3 is my preferred way down.


Protection 

5 bolts. A long runout maybe 40 feet or more between bolt 5 and the anchors, although the pitch mellows a lot and it becomes a comfortable 5.6 or 5.5



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Rope line for Crystal Staircase
Rope line for Crystal Staircase
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By Geissler Golding
Aug 14, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R

Just climbed this route and yes it's run-out (even after the 4th bolt), but it now sports an anchor (2 new bolts/hangers).

"G" after setting up a TR on the staircase....
"G" after setting up a TR on the staircase....