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Are you a fan of head injuries and awkward painful climbing? Do you enjoy bouldering with a helmet and causing harm to your spotter when you fall? If so, then this is the climb for you! On the backside of the Zoo, this sharp arete rises out of a hole and while it doesn't look half bad, it is possibly one of the worst problems in the park. Start at the base of the arete and climb out of the hole while fighting the barndoor into the other boulder, then as you finally reach the crux, try to avoid cracking your head open or knocking your spotter off of the boulder as you grunt for the lip.
On the backside of the Zoo, next to the stream, on the the same boulder as Jaws (Texas Chainsaw Massacre) and The Professor. From Hobbit Hole you could actually just duck through the cave and come out the back, but it's easier to walk around.
Two or three pads, spotter, maybe even a helmet
|By Christian Prellwitz|
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 9, 2013
rating: V5+ 6C+
C'mon Bryce, this climb isn't THAT bad.
If you removed the climb from its terrible location, it might be three star worthy. The climbing is quite technical and challenging, with movement straight out of Squamish.
That's not to say that all of the negatives Bryce mentioned aren't accurate. Personally, I think it's worthy of one star. And more traffic. With the caveat that you should be pretty solid at the grade and preferably have a couple of pads and a spotter.