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 ADVANCED
Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adam's Rib S 
Backpaddle S 
Black Tube, The S 
Brown Hangers S 
Crystal Jug S 
Dick Van Dike S 
Law School S 
Love Canal S 
Rasp, The S 
Shag S 
Unknown S 
Unsorted Routes:

Crystal Jug 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Matt Quinn/Tom Kohlman, 2008
Page Views: 1,252
Submitted By: Wes B. on Sep 20, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Crystal Jug (5.7). Bolts/belays are approximate.

Description 

Pitch 1 (5.7, 90 feet)
Start 15' east of Love Canal on a steep fin to reach a bolt 20' off the ground (or you can get to this bolt by walking up the fin on the left side). Continue past the first bolt clipping three/four more bolts to the anchor. The crux of the climb is between bolt two and bolt three.

Pitch 2 (5.6, 80 feet)
From the anchor, look up and to the left to see the first bolt of pitch two. From there follow the line of bolts (6 bolts) along easy and well protected rock.

NOTE - Expect serious rope drag if climbing this route in one long pitch. We also had some difficulty pulling the rope after a double rope rappel.

Protection 

4 quickdraws for P1, 6 quickdraws for P2, 2 two bolt anchors with twisted links.


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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 25, 2011

Watch out for the cactus above the 1st bolt on the right.