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> (a) Castle Rock - Sou…
Cryptology
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 18
votes
Routes in (a) Castle Rock - Southwest Face
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Ball and Chain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cryptology S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Great Steps of Cheops, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Holy Fingers S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sphynx, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Turret, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Craig Britton & Chris Miller, September 2011 |
| Page Views: | 2,201 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Sep 10, 2011 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Anchor the belayer (a large block can be slung) then stem across the chasm to reach the first bolt.
Fun climbing up plated face to the midpoint where the rock changes character and becomes less featured to a crux at the 5th bolt. Higher make a delicate traverse left to gain a good horizontal and progressively larger holds to the top.
The climbing on this route is very reminiscent of Joshua Tree with it's delicate friction moves and tricky sequences and is perhaps best done in the shade or cooler weather.
- Can be started from the ground by working up the wide crack and if you pre-clip the first bolt you won't need any gear.
Location
Far left side of the SW face, just left of The Great Steps of Cheops.
The route is best approached by hiking up-slope parallel to the wall until able to traverse right on ledges to the base unless starting lower.
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