Cryogenics 

Great crack climb. Can be a little tricky if it's at the upper end of your ability. My partner led it and left no pro when he moved left, then traversed back right, avoiding the 11+ crux if you climb straight up. I couldn't see his lead, as it was up and over, and got pumped when I tried to follow straight up. I eventually moved left and back right as well, which definitely put me at risk of a serious pendulum had I come off the rock. So, the leader may want to stick that one extra piece of pro in there...

We didn't do the second pitch, but the first pitch is an absolute must if you visit this area. There are chains at the ledge at the top of the first pitch.

Nice climb. I didn't know about the stemming and didn't figure it out up there either. Instead, I laybacked the upper section and ran it out 10-12 feet above the rest stance and took a nice 30 footer onto a yellow Alien. I rested and then went up and ran it out to the top, pumped out of my mind. Next time I do it I'll definitely try the stemming method.

For the direct second pitch, I remember the small cams mentioned after the stemming; then a larger cam, a bolt over the small roof and a pin about ten feet after. Nice, challenging, finish to good climb; I think it protects better than the alternate finish, for both the leader and the second.

The 1st pitch is mega-classic, probably the best single ropelength I've done since moving to CO. Every placement is bomber & all are set from good stances.

DO THIS ROUTE!

This route is an all time classic! The first pitch, by itself, is pretty much incredible! The second pitch, straight up variation was excellent as well. If you want the true onsight, stop reading now. If you want gear beta, continue on.

I used the following on the second pitch straight up variation (which is really cool!). In the tips crack off the belay, a larger RP and a blue Alien (a green might fit at one point, too). Good med/lg nut in the corner. Another one from the finger lock on the roof, then a #2 Camalot. Then decide if you want a red Alien / #0.5 Camalot, or you can clip the beefy bolt right there too (I don't know why there is a bolt... maybe because the last placement is in a pod so the cams could move and umbrella.. but there is plenty of gear). There is a crap bolt above the first one and a pin out right (I skipped both, and I'm not very ballzy), then a shallow #1 Camalot and you're onto easier ground after a few more pieces (can place a #3 Camalot but not necessary). Get on the second pitch as it's good gear and pretty easy to aid if you don't want to pull the moves! Walk off or rap. Killer!

5/5/2011
Glen Denny is at my place (Basalt) visiting right now and I just showed him this page on Cryogenic(s). He says he and Bill Forrest climbed it in 1966 while they were getting ready to do an ascent of the Yellow Wall. They hadn't ever climbed with each other, so they wanted to get a feel for each other's style. So they drove up the pass and did this route. Cam Burns

This route is ok... all right, it's pretty good. I don't understand the hype about it though. The first bit is awkward thrutchiness up a wide, rather rotten crack. Pro is less than inspiring because it depends upon small, cracked flakes.

Then after a squirmy no hands rest, it's a few moves of lieback to jugs. Classic? Maybe the most classic trad 5.10a at Independence Pass. But let's not get carried away....

I'm with you, Phil. If it was actually a good "crack," it would be a much more quality pitch. As it is, it's fun face climbing protected by gear that I agree is sometimes less than inspiring. There are plenty of good trad lines in this area. Check out Cramper at Lincoln Creek if you want a true splitter crack.

3 new anchor bolts/chain atop pitch 1. Hardware courtesy of ASCA.

Howdy Phil (and BJ)

I think the confusion might be due to having only done 1 pitch of a 2 pitch climb? Granted it has been some time since I did it, but I recall the first pitch as being something worth enduring to get to the fun climbing above! (which poses some confusion regarding it being rated as 10a...it is a solid 5.11 climb with a 5.9+/10- 1st pitch...). The 1st pitch leads to some great and exposed (and well-protected) 5.11 climbing that make Cryogenics a route really worth doing! Besides being in one of the most beautiful settings in the world, it has that cool exaggerated exposure, good pro, funky body English climbing...just a cool, classic route IMHO.

cheers,

Scott