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Cactus Cliff
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Crynoid Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Steve Cheney, 1986. Equipped 2000
Page Views: 10,656
Submitted By: William Prehm on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (235)
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Ginny Beaudreau on her first lead. Crynoid Corner...

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Description 

This route is located directly up from the parking area at Cactus Cliff. Very prominent bolted corner-crack at the far left.

This is a well-protected route making it a very good beginner lead.


Protection 

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



Photos of Crynoid Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing Crynoid and loving it.
Climbing Crynoid and loving it.
View from the anchors.
View from the anchors.
Working up Crynoid Corner.
Working up Crynoid Corner.
Cactus Cliff - Left (1) <br /> <br />Man-tasia is now named Pick Pocket.
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (1)

Man-tasia is now named Pi...
Credits for the picture go to Mike. Thanks.
Credits for the picture go to Mike. Thanks.
From the anchor.
From the anchor.
Fury in taking a break in the middle of the climb.
Fury in taking a break in the middle of the climb.
Dave G. at the anchors on Crynoid Corner.  A very enjoyable 5.7 route!
BETA PHOTO: Dave G. at the anchors on Crynoid Corner. A very ...
Sarah leading.
Sarah leading.
Meaghan on the warm-up.
Meaghan on the warm-up.
Sarah liebacking.
Sarah liebacking.
Starting the rap off.
Starting the rap off.
Dave Wayne leading Crynoid Corner. <br /> <br />Photo by Buster Jesik.
Dave Wayne leading Crynoid Corner.

Photo by Buste...
Rigging the descent.
Rigging the descent.
Comments on Crynoid Corner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 28, 2011
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 14, 2001

The photo of the climber makes it seem like that corner would be a perfectly and legit trad lead.... if so, it's a shame it's bolted, despite being a good beginner lead.

By William Prehm
Nov 14, 2001

I agree. The climb could easily be climbed trad. It seemed that the placements would have been very straightforward. This is one of those climbs that you go Huuummmm wonder why this happened? Maybe just for convenience since very few people go to shelf to trad climb.

By Kreighton Bieger
Nov 14, 2001

Just because the bolts are there is it no longer possible to trad lead it? You could bring a rack down and lead at least six routes under 5.10b at Shelf that I can think of off the top of my head. Check out Castrator and Barney on Freeform Wall. There is Bat (shit) crack at the Menses Prow area, and another open book corner on the other side of CA Ethics pinnacle there. Add this one and then a good warmup 9+ thing we did at the Bank last time and that's a pretty full day. Have at it.

The more I think about it, since I'm such a weenie, it seems like forcing myself to trad lead around good solid bolts might not be bad for my Mind Control.

Whatcha think? Anyone want to hump a trad rack to Shelf in the near future?

By William Prehm
Nov 14, 2001

Yes, that climb to the right of CEP is called First Blood and is a super climb. I have never tried it trad. Add Sticks and Stones... on Cactus Rose Wall to your list. I swear you will see it and HAVE to climb it. I guess with some of these cracks being bolted if you ever get in trouble leading it trad you could always just clip a bolt and keep from getting hurt. Might be a good way for some climbers to break into trad climbing with out so much risk.

By Scott Hansen
From: Westminster, CO
Nov 15, 2001

Bolting cracks at a sport area is a good way for people to break into trad climbing!? I don't think I want the kind of people who are willing to bolt cracks, because they can't lead them on gear, running loose in trad areas. What's so hard about rigging a top rope while trailing a rope and placing gear to simulate a lead. I'd say that would be a good way to break into trad. I know my climbing pals may feel differently but I still have a hard time swallowing the justification for bolting cracks just because a place is primarily a sport area. I guess I'm off beating the drum for a more global ethic rather than local ethics when it comes to sesitive issues. I just would like to see bolting of cracks stopped. I'm sure it's a still a very fun lead, either way.

By steve dieckhoff
Nov 16, 2001

I also feel that bolting cracks is unjustifiable and not in the spirit of climbing. The excuse that the route is on a 'sport crag' is a pitiful one. Are these climbers so lazy that they can't carry a rack of gear on a 10 minute approach? As more and more bolted routes are squeezed in between the natural routes the crags get designated as 'sport crags' thereby rationalizing more and more bolts. Why does somebody with a drill get to designate a crag as a 'sport crag' anyway?

In the recent American Alpine Journal you can read about how the practice of bolting cracks has been brought to Patagonia. In order to stop the lowering of standards in places that represent the state of the art we need to stop lowering the standards at our home crags.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 1, 2002

So what if people want to do it sport. True, the route is perfect for TRAD....if ya wanna lead it trad than forget about the bolts and use your rack. but dont pull out the bolts. just ignore them.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 2, 2002

I may be opening a can of worms here...but here goes. I know people occasionally trad climb at Shelf but isn't that limestone not the best rock? How do you know if there isn't an air pocket right behind that seemingly solid cam placement? I've heard leading on gear at Shelf appears solid but actually is not. Oh well, what do I know?

By David Danforth
From: California/Colorado
Oct 31, 2002

I think everyone is right in their own sense here. Bolting a crack doesnt seem the most logical thing to do. However, there was a time when i didnt have much of a rack other than my draws, probobly the same with all of us. I did this route a few weeks ago. Its a great route, trad or bolted. it doesnt matter much. Those of us feel more comfortable on bolted routes (me) can use the bolts. Those of us who enjoy the thrill of trad climbing (me the other 50% of the time) can simply ignore the bolts and work on placing pro. But it isnt wise to take the bolts out. Regardless of wether or not it was smart, whoever bolted worked to do it, and theres no reason why his/her work should go to waste.

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 2, 2003

I thought this was an excellent climb. One of the better moderate routes in the area.

By Bill Parmenter
Nov 17, 2003

To whomever painted the warning at the start of Crynoid Corner about the large dangerously loose boulder on the route: "Thank you!!". The location and condition of that boulder was indeed eminently life threatening. To all others reading this: as of today that boulder has been removed. So, you may now disregard the warning at the base of this route, concerning that particular block. However, in the future other blocks on this route (as well as most other routes) will become dangerously loose. Some will be large. Get in the habit of testing all blocks and flakes with a tap to check for hollowness, followed by gentle pressure before trusting them. Any person who would have just reached up and yarded out on this particular block today would have died and killed their belayer in the process.

By The Dude
Mar 30, 2005

Limestone undergoes a process called "case hardening" . Limestone (Calcium Carbonate) dissolves in slightly acidic groundwater (caused by dead material). This erosion is what causes pockets. It also creates a hard wall on the outside of the rock, leaving softer rock within. Imagine salt migrating to the outside of your favorite ball cap when you are sweating away. When it dries it leaves a crust, just like certain limestones, especially the ones with sandstone like properties (sandstone is porous). I think that is the argument behind not using trad gear at Shelf. The rock feels strong, but it is basically brittle. A nut placement or cam could litterally explode the rock it is placed in.

By Scott Edlin
From: boulder, co
Apr 6, 2006

Fun climb. Too bad it's a shamelessly bolted trad climb. Be careful pulling your rope.

By usernameremoved
Sep 24, 2007

Be really careful pulling your rope on this one... the crack eats 'em. Climb is fun enough I didn't mind leading it a second time to retrieve a rope.

By GeoffElson
Aug 27, 2008

This is GREAT beginner Trad lead, hands size gear, pretty lame that it is bolted.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jun 16, 2009

Excellent climb. True, it would go fine on gear, but so would a lot of routes at shelf. This is obviously a sport climbing destination, why haul a rack out there for a route or two? Doesn't make much sense. As others have said, be careful pulling your rope on this one.

By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Fun climb to climb Trad. I was able to go all passive with hexes and tricams. Fun to purposely not use SLCDs.

Slicer is the 5.10 to the left with the bouldery start.