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Crying Flyboys 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: D. Montgomery & D. Mabe, 1/10
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,481
Submitted By: Monty on Jan 31, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Getting the FA of Crying Flyboys. -photo by Darren...

  • Private land MORE INFO >>>
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  • The Skinny! 

    Crying Flyboys is a new addition to Primo Wall that is located just right of Flying Cowboys on immaculate stone.

    Start up a good, side-pull flake and pull up to a wonderful, sloper-rail traverse. Make your third clip and emabark into a cruxy, barn-dooring seam, to a fun mantle over the lip. Do you gaston? Do you huck? Find out for yourself or you might just be a Crying Flyboy!

    I like to think of this route as an oversized V8 boulder problem... with a rope.

    Protection 

    4 bolts with fixed draws + 2 bolt anchor with fixed biners.
    • It is not recommended to TR this route.


    Photos of Crying Flyboys Slideshow Add Photo
    The Lukester going for the lip!
    The Lukester going for the lip!
    Darren looking fly on the fun sloper rail traverse. <br />-photo by anonymous flyboy.
    Darren looking fly on the fun sloper rail traverse...
    Kevin going for Crying Flyboys.
    Kevin going for Crying Flyboys.
    Crying Flyboys 12d.  note: there is no red tag anymore, enjoy.
    Crying Flyboys 12d. note: there is no red tag any...

    Comments on Crying Flyboys Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 16, 2013
    By Luke Childers
    Jan 31, 2010
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Sweet!! Can't wait to get on this one!! It looks like a sweet addition to "The Primo Wall." Nice work, guys!!
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Jan 31, 2010

    This is my kind of bouldering! Great fun!

    Key beta: kegel exercises.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Feb 1, 2010

    Cool route. Good to see the new lines going in!
    By Jay Samuelson
    From: Denver CO
    Mar 17, 2010
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    What a cool little route. Packs a lot more punch than it appears from the ground as well. Cool series of in-obvious moves with an awesome toss to the lip.
    By K-dub
    Apr 20, 2010

    This route seems sandbagged. My friend Nick (who climbs .14b) took three tries to do this. He rarely takes more than two tries to send .13b.
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Apr 21, 2010

    Can Nick kegal?

    5.13b?! I barely consider myself a 5.12 climber! Woo!

    Glad you enjoyed it though! :)
    By Luke Childers
    Apr 21, 2010
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Sandbagged??!!? This is a rarity for Clear Creek it seems.... The place that has had a history of people claiming that the climbing is soft may be turning over a new leaf!!!

    Is it so?? Could this be it??? Is the canyon working on a new reputation... one of desperate sandbagged climbing!!! that leaves only the broken core of what was once rock climber.

    These are difficult times, my friends. Be careful who you talk to about these matters and really think about who you are going to side with in the end.
    Is it going to be the... "it's so sandbagged" group or the "it's too soft?" So, as I digress one must remember to be mindful when discussing route difficulty with others because you never know who may be listening..............
    By adampeters
    From: Golden, Colorado
    Jun 2, 2010

    Kaelen, agreed! Don't be dissuaded by Wiled Horse's comments, this route is a little sandbagged and he does climb 5.13.... Here's my two cents.... At first glance, I thought this route looked unappealing to me, but I decided to try it the other day. To my surprise, it was actually fun with good bolt placements and good stone (nice eye, boys). However, the 12d grade seems a little off to me. I feel that Anarchitect is a real 12d, and I'm pretty sure that most agree. This route is harder. Seems to me that the crux of this route has a single harder move on it or at least a comparable move to Public, Squeeze Play, and River Run, which are all on the same wall. Okay, maybe not, but this thing is spitting me off, and I'm pissed! We can all say it's 12d when we do it and be the Crying Flyboys club, but until then, this thing is 13a+!
    By Monty
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 3, 2010

    So it's not just a clever name! Watching you guys on this last night definitely reminded me how hard this route is. I'm not a consistent 5.13 climber, so I gave it the hardest grade that I've climbed a lot of...12d. Seemed pretty hard when I sent. You're right compared to Anarchitect, or The Gauntlet. It's a lot harder crux and very low percentage.
    By adampeters
    From: Golden, Colorado
    Jun 3, 2010

    I got the name reference right away...and I seem to remember you walking that first pitch to the Wall of 90s project which clocks in somewhere around 13b? And by walking it, I mean you make it look like 10b, soooo, I would say, yes, you have climbed 13. But like I said, I'll "cry" about it until I send it, and then I'll probably call it 12d! Ha, good job though!
    By Monty
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 3, 2010

    I've changed the grade to 13a/V8. It's hard to grade such a short route, but it seems to be making "crying flyboys" out of some very strong climbers ;)
    regardless of the grade it's a very worthy opponent to spar with. Good luck on the up coming sends!
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Jun 4, 2010

    For our first route together, and meeting up for what we called "second-shift" after work in the chilling dark of a January night, Dave and I poked the bolts in. As we worked out the moves, and realizing the full potential of our reaches and kegal strengths (Dave and I are almost identical heights and almost the same ape-indexes) he proudly sent shortly after.
    Me Drilling Crying Flyboys,at primo wall, on a cold 2nd shift after work #1
    Me Drilling Crying Flyboys,at primo wall, on a cold 2nd shift after work #1
    Me stealth drillin' on "Crying Flyboys", Primo Wall. Jan. '10.
    Me stealth drillin' on "Crying Flyboys", Primo Wall. Jan. '10.


    Regarding the grade, well, perhaps the way we did it is a bit height dependent. There. I said it, but ironically we too compared it to the single crux move of Anarchitect, which by itself is probably V6 but the sustained nature of the route is solid 12d. The crux of CF is maybe V7+ albeit one move wonder, thus clocking CF in at a good ol' sandbagged 12d (again, what do I know I don't boulder). I am more than fine calling it 13-. Adam and Derek are hardly crying, as their resumes of 13s and hard boulder problems speak for themselves, justifying the credibility of a more accurate rating. I am honored and psyched to give you two something challenging, glad you enjoy it, and if the bolts are in the right spots, I can't ask for anything more! Shookading!

    So, with all the Primo linkups, who is gonna sack up for the "Crying Flying Cow-Patty Child"? ;)
    By adampeters
    From: Golden, Colorado
    Jun 5, 2010

    Big Wall Mabe! Are those Makalus on your feetsies?
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Jun 8, 2010

    I can only stand in aiders with flip-flops when it's warm.
    By Luke Childers
    Dec 10, 2010
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Got on this today on top rope! Got my butt kicked!! It was great and interesting. For a short route to climbing and the stone quality are well worth giving this one some attention!! Great route and one I'm going to be working on. As for the grade..... I say... hard until otherwise sent!! Thanks for the great route, guys. Luke-Out
    By Kevin Capps
    From: Golden, CO
    Dec 14, 2010
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    I love this one.
    By Jay Samuelson
    From: Denver CO
    Jan 7, 2011
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Came back to this one the other day in the freezing cold after having sampled it in the spring; I had forgotten how much fun this one is. Great movement with ever increasing difficulty to an awesome toss to the lip! Great job on this one guys, a quality addition to this wall.

    When compared to other .13a's in the Front Range like Sonic Youth, Old Yellar, or The Monument, this one seems easy. I would probably give this a slash rating if there was the option, but I'll take the .13a : )
    By Monty
    From: Golden, CO
    Jan 8, 2011

    12e.
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Jan 8, 2011

    Luke, great to see you out and about and on the mend!
    By Jay Samuelson
    From: Denver CO
    Jan 8, 2011
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Darren, you know there's nothing on earth that can stop that beast! Rock juice is coursing through his veins....

    12e - perfect! My thoughts exactly, Dave!
    By Luke Childers
    Jan 26, 2011
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Thanks, Darren.... I love me some rock and really want send this baby!! Jay and Kevin!!! Wow, you guys put that hog away!! Nice sending, people!!
    By Luke Childers
    Oct 22, 2011
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Been on this one a few times and couldn't ever stick the right hand move into the shallow, left-facing seam!! But today that all changed!! Using a thumb pinch on that move allowed me to stick the evil, vertical seam!! And as for the finish moves, I found an ok left hand crimp up and left of the seam that then allowed me to dive at the lip and stick it!! Not the beta I've seen friends use to send, but it worked for me!! Now I still did not send today, but I got the line clean from the sloppy ledge, so I feel close!!! Really pumped to get back out to finish this one off!! Postive things here, people!!! Maybe it's unjustified optimism, but I do believe with my new beta that I can or at least have a great chance of getting this one in the bag next time I'm there!!!! As for my feeling on the grade at this point... I say... five freaken' funteen A!!! WOW!! What fun!! Hope I can sleep tonight! Ye-ha... stepinahoedown partner!!
    By half-pad-mini-jug
    From: crauschville
    Apr 28, 2013

    Short, but oh so very sweet!
    By Luke Childers
    May 16, 2013
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Got this one today after many days on over 2 months and had a fantastic time working the red point. A truly fine addition to the wall and glad I was able to experience it. So thanks, Dave and Darren. Well done, men.