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Crybaby 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tom Herbert
Page Views: 1,453
Submitted By: Tim Steele on Jan 11, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: "Crybaby"

Description 

This is a classic Herbert rig that follows a seam up an immaculate wall. The crux comes early and is just a few moves long (Id guess about V4 or 5). If you boulder or know how to campus its bound to feel easy. But, you still have to have enough fitness to romp through some fun 5.11 at the top. Great route; very striking.


Protection 

7 bolts to closed shuts. yes, shuts. Needs mussy's fo' sho'.



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By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Jan 11, 2007
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Super classic, striking and follows a definite feature...not typical Gorge edge hauling. The crux is harder but doable for shorter folks.

By Choncho
Jul 20, 2010

Classic. Eases quickly.

By Drew Peterson
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Brand new mussy's up top.

By Drewsky
Jan 19, 2013

At the crux did other folks make a large move to the good edge from the good undercling and a crappy crimp to the right with right foot way up in a weird jam near the undercling? I'm short and that move felt way hard.

By Neil Rankin
From: Greensboro, NC
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

The crux is right off the bat and it is reach dependent. Even with long arms it's a hard couple of moves. Definitely harder than v4 (I'm talking to you Tim, you strong bastard). I think I remember a no-hands rest off of a butt scum up higher before the last steep section.