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Routes in The Sanctuary
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Atlas Shrugged S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Blue Collar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blue Sunday S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Budda Slept T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cherry Red S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Conquistador of the Crumbly T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cruxifixion S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dirty Old Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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First Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hoosier Boys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Hot Gossip S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Immaculate Deception S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jesus Wept S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Name Dropper S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Peace Frog S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Perfidious Deciduous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Prometheus Unbound S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Triple Sec aka Fifty Bucks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Jared Hancock |
| Page Views: | 1,149 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 17, 2009 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
This is a good line that is marred by an oddly contrived start and mundane appearance. To make matters worse, the route is hidden in the trees, hard to get to, and looks like no fun from the ground. However, once you get to the second bolt or so, this route climbs a beautiful orange streak of incut edges & the occasional sinker pocket.
Stick clip the first bolt. The route begins with a boulder problem that is supposed to be in the V6 range, but the only way to achieve that sort of difficulty is to ignore obvious large holds that are no more than one arm-length from the plumb line. If the guidebook grade of 12d is important to you, ignore the obvious holds and climb mossy divots straight up.
The obvious sequence is to start a bit right, climb up to the horizontal crimp band, traverse left along the band to the flake, then up & back right. From this point head straight up along the cool, featured streak to a no hands rest on the ledge. For some reason the route doesn't end at this ledge. Instead climb the pumpy overhanging wall above to the crappy, rope-twisting anchor.
Stick clip the first bolt. The route begins with a boulder problem that is supposed to be in the V6 range, but the only way to achieve that sort of difficulty is to ignore obvious large holds that are no more than one arm-length from the plumb line. If the guidebook grade of 12d is important to you, ignore the obvious holds and climb mossy divots straight up.
The obvious sequence is to start a bit right, climb up to the horizontal crimp band, traverse left along the band to the flake, then up & back right. From this point head straight up along the cool, featured streak to a no hands rest on the ledge. For some reason the route doesn't end at this ledge. Instead climb the pumpy overhanging wall above to the crappy, rope-twisting anchor.
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