|The Double Clutching Wall
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA: ||JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Fall, Winter, Spring|
|Page Views: ||819|
|Submitted By: ||JJ Schlick on May 1, 2011|
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Matt Swartz crushing the roof and the pitch for an...
Crux Deluxe shares the same start as Double Clutching. Start up large flake pillar and mantle to small ledge on pillar right. Work left through excellent bottle neck finger locks and up through a short chunky, though solid section of rock. From a conspicuous diagonal .75 placement move up and right to a good thick flake. The mental crux of the route is above you. Move gingerly into a hollow section of rock. Though the moves are only 5.9 here, they feel a bit weird at first. Plan on placing several marginal pieces here (small wires, small TCU). Move up to roof past thin fingers and bust the wild moves out the roof (5.10+).
Rest up after the roof at the small horizontal crack and eye the line well... Move up using distinct holds on the left, and the main crack on the right. At the steep finger section plug in a #3 TCU and punch through some steep bouldery moves using big holds on both sides of mini arete 5.11. Plan on firing in a .5 or.75 camalot mid crux. Finish up by following the main splitter past huge jugs, and a full on stance to clip the anchors...so don't be afraid to punch it at the end.
A great pitch that gets better and better the more you get to know it.
Shares start with Double Clutching.
At least several each TCU, triple set of #.5 and #.75 camalot, a #1 Camalot, Small/medium wires. RUNNERS.
Fixed biner anchor