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South Peak - West Face
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Crusher Critter 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Greg Collins, Hernado Vera
Page Views: 581
Submitted By: K Baumgartner on Sep 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Sweet, short pitch.

Description 

Start up the short, right facing corner to gain a small ledge below the crack. Plug a few more pieces in the finger crack and then follow it up around the EXTREMELY loose, huge block (crux). This block is so loose it moved when I barely grazed it with my shoulder.

You could very easily link Crusher and Crispy Critters into one long pitch without too much drag.


Location 

Old Man's traverse ledge about 10 feet above the Front C tree and about 35 feet directly below Crispy Critter. Belay from two small trees to the right of the route to stay out of the fall zone should the loose block give way.


Protection 

Small cams (Metolius TCU 01 to BD .5/1).



Photos of Crusher Critter Slideshow Add Photo
THE block.
THE block.
Placing pro before the crux around the block.
Placing pro before the crux around the block.
Comments on Crusher Critter Add Comment
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By K Baumgartner
Sep 9, 2012

Seconded this route last weekend with Andy. Led it this week and almost fell right around the block and noticed that my #1BD had walked back, which would have certainly led to an ankle breaking fall to the ledge. Good place about 1.5 feet above block helps protect the top out.

Make sure the belayer is way to the right of the huge block should it come free.

By Seth Murphy
Sep 17, 2012

While the block appears very insecure, it's not. Similar to the flexy flake on banana, the creaky hold on Ambush, etc.. Welcome to Seneca.

By K Baumgartner
Jun 30, 2013

Uh, well that block actually pulls out, so leave it to each person to decide for themselves how secure it really is.

By Evan Anderson
From: Brookeville, MD
Aug 22, 2013

Creaky hold on Ambush? I didn't notice one....