|West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
|FA: ||Joseffa Meir, Tony Bubb, 2001|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||253|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Nov 17, 2001|
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Refer to the directions to "P3 of Working Class Hero" to locate the "Upper Construction Zone" buttress.
At the very left hand side of the Upper Construction Zone, a large evergreen stands at the base of a rotten looking wall, just left of a rotten, shrub-choked left facing dihedral. This wall is even worse than it looks. The cracks directly behind the tree on the wall which become three parallel cracks (within reach of each other) are called "Three Lane Highway (5.8, S)". To the right, the rock is generally better. The first good rock to the right about 10', is the first nice dihedral. This starts very small, but grows larger, is the route, Bottlenecks (5.9, *). A short way further right is a second left facing dihedral, Cruising Lane (5.6). Stepping further right still, you will pass under and overhang below a massive, clean, right-facing dihedral, which is one of the gems of the group, Shoulder Work Ahead (5.10).
If you reach the hand and fist crack thought the massive overhang (P3 of Highway 61), you have gone too far, go back one dihedral to the west.
Cruising Lane is a route with little or no merit to it, and although it can be lead with a light rack, it is still somewhat loose and demands an S rating. Move up into the dihedral and saunter up. You will reach the top of the Upper Construction Zone buttress after 60 feet of easy, but grungy climbing.
To descend: From the top of the vertical rock, you scramble up and left (W/NW) to a large pine tree, at which there is a solid fixed rap station. This station is presently 2 independent tied slings around a solid tree and a single leaver biner. It needs a quick link or two added or to replace the single biner present. Rap from this to the base of the Upper Construction Zone, then walk off in reverse of the description as for approach #3.
Standard Eldo rack can protect the route, but the poor rock demands an S rating. It also demands that I give the route a "bomb" grade - it is not worth climbing. In fact, it is a total waste of time, don't bother.
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