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Given a 5.7 grade in Tim Olson's Portland Rock Climbs book, this route is thin and intimidating even for the 5.8 grade. Start up a slabby face with a shallow crack near a tall oak tree, just before heading around/up to the start of South East Corner. Utilize face holds while finagling small gear into the pods in the crack, continuing upwards through a very thin section of the crack (long reach helpful). Hit a roof, step left with good gear, then continue up through a few more hand-foot matches to grassy ledges. Traverse right to the Pitch 2 anchors of South East Corner. Continue up via this route or rap from two fat Metolius bolts.
Past the start for Young Warriors, before the start for Little Wing and South East Corner. At a belay platform below a big oak tree.
Gear to 2" (emphasis in smaller stuff!)
|By Steve Wolford|
May 27, 2013
This is one of the classic pitches at Beacon Rock. Solid but well spaced gear, interesting and varied movement, and it allows a shortcut to the SE corner if someone else has gotten to the start before you. Well worth taking a whirl on. Don't forget the stoppers for the first half!
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 20, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Great climb. Thin crack takes small nuts better than cams. Traverse move under the roof can be protected with good cams or slinging a block with a double length sling.