Located on the West Ridge near The Unsaid (two dihedrals to the right). Start from the ledge with the tree. Climb through blocky terrain to an open corner with a detatched flake. Much harder when the horizontal break near the top of the corner is wet. Crux is last 15 feet. Rap off Unsaid anchors.
I've done this dry a couple of times now, so here's the gig on the pro: The break takes a great red camalot. There is a little slot for a small nut in the corner, but the placement requires care. I've seen the thing pull or almost pull a couple of times. The cam is sufficient for pro, but if you blow the last moves out of the corner, it's a whip. Really, this climb is a little soft for the grade, but it's still well worth doing.
Agree with Chris - Great place; Washington Irving, The Unled, Unsaid, Strawberry Shortcut and then Cruisin'... But, Cruisin' is a cruise, less the last 7 feet, where it becomes b or c for about 3 quick moves... Still a lot of fun and fairly spooky due to the runout from the last chincey RP! Hey if you find an old Schwinn Homegrown hat up around there, PLEASE put it on the trail for me!
Led this yesterday after following it a few weeks ago. The gear can be quite good, as follows:1) At the roof there is currently a fixed brass in the corner. I had 6 good pieces here including the fixed nut: A #6 brass HB next to the fixed brass, a red Alien in the same pocket, a #00 Metolius TCU below (these cams keep the brass from lifting), and a #1/red and #2/gold Camalot in the roof to the let.2) After making the first moves up the corner there is a good nut, about 3/8", in the corner. I used an HB offset (got these recently and really like them). This piece could lift out as you move left, so use a long quickdraw or a full length runner.3) Here's the trick, discovered after getting totally terrified in the red band, dropping two Camalots to the ground, and then starting to downclimb in desperation: When your hands are on the slanting bucket in the red band. Reach down with your left hand to where the slab meets the red band. There is a blind fingerlock that takes a good nut. You can get a #0 TCU next to it that is also good and serves as a directional. You may be able to bypass the bucket in the red band and reach left directly for the finger lock. Step down another move to a no hands rest on big footholds. With these top pieces and the no hands rest, the traverse is casual.
Is Ivan talking about the same climb I did? Doesn't sound familiar at all (I did it 2 days ago, so its not like my memory has slipped).
My partner, Mike Flanagan, led this. There is a decent rest at the roof, from where one can get in a medium cam under the roof and some rps in the corner. Once you leave this stance, there is about 10 feet of thin, difficult climbing before you essentially top out and cruise to the anchors. From my (limited) experience, the grade seemed right on. Nice pitch but it is only that...ONE pitch. Good training route to push the grades on.
David Conlin said: "Is Ivan talking about the same climb I did?"
I've done it 3 times in the last year. Are you referring to the gear? How good are you at gear? I'm very good. Also, having done it 3 times, I found gear the 2nd and 3rd times I missed the first time. It's very safe if you find the gear.
[Definitely] bring small pro for this thing (e.g. small stoppers, RPs). I took a fall at the crux on a small Black Diamond stopper, possibly a #3 or #4, which thankfully held me. I placed a marginal #2 Camalot at the slot which was backed up with small stopper placement in the seam (the placement that I fell on).
The crux reminded me of a V1 or V2 boulder problem, as it was thought provoking. A fun route with substantial pro.
I think at any other area this would be rated S. There is pro at the bottom of the dihedral (the nut and cam to the left) and then one tiny wire in the seam almost all the way at the top which can be placed, but placed "mid-crux". The pro is thin and difficult exactly during the crux of the climb. If you blow the tiny wire and fall, you'd probably get hurt pretty bad which I think is the definition of S. So I guess I'd just say be pretty confident at the grade before hopping on this.
It was cold yesterday when we did this route. My friends turned me onto the ridiculous idea of 'glove-pointing'. How hard do you think you can climb in gloves? I 'took the gloves off' for this one!
No more fixed nut, but a #4 BD Micro Stopper is bomber in that placement. Right below it there was a #1 Camalot and a red C3, although you still might end up on that slab if you fall at the end of the crux.