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Stripe Rock
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Cruel Shoes S 
Dykes of Gastonia T 
Poly-Stick-Em T 

Cruel Shoes 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 19,236
Submitted By: John Bradford on Sep 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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Climber midway on P3.

Description 

A fun and easier multi pitch route that does top out. 3 pitches, with the option to do one or all, though rapping from any of the belay stations will take two ropes. The rating on the first pitch is 5.6, though it feels harder. It is all bolts, take 16-20 quickdraws. The descent is to the left then down a westward tending ramp to a single double rope rappell.

Protection 

All Bolts, with two bolt belays.


Photos of Cruel Shoes Slideshow Add Photo
Leading Cruel Shoes on Stripe Rock
Leading Cruel Shoes on Stripe Rock
Leading P2 of Cruel Shoes
Leading P2 of Cruel Shoes
Cruel Shoes
Cruel Shoes

Comments on Cruel Shoes Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 18, 2014
By Jake Richens
From: Sl, ut
Oct 24, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

make sure to bring two ropes to decend the route. Pitch 1 is exactly 30 meters(you have to be in the corner) Pitch two is about 22, Pitch 3 is about 40. The climb is easy, but not as easy as theatre of shawdows. You will also want to scream and holla to listen to the echo's off of this massive dome and the tahitian wall/white wall, grey wall and the great wall.
By Dylan Kuhn
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 16, 2006

I found the first pitch to be the best and hardest. My wife swung leads with me for the first time on this route - the regular bolts gave her confidence. We rapped Poly-Stick-Em with a single rope as Tony suggests.
By ashcan
Oct 8, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Safe and P1 and P2 are classic for an all bolted route in the 5.7 grade.
By Adam Wilson
From: Provo, UT
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Rap poly-stick-um, 4 raps with a 60m, be careful on the first two raps. Fun route!
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Sep 1, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

first and second pitch can be combined with a 60 meter rope. 2 full rope raps get you to the bottom if you go down that 10a slab route.
By Mattcbh
Oct 3, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Really fun. Second pitch was really short. Might be able to combine 1 and 2, but would have to use sligns or deal with a lot of rope drag. I think the guide book stated the first pitch was 5.6 and the third pitch was 5.7, but I felt the third was the easiest.
By zoso
Oct 4, 2009

Try climbing it simul @ night. Best way imo-no crowds.
By Rick Casey
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Jun 28, 2010

Absolutely stellar route for the grade! It is rare to find a bolted route this long at this grade that is so consistent in difficulty. I agree with other comments that pitch 1 is hardest, pitch 2 is shortest, and pitch 3 is easiest. We rapped the route by rapping from the 3rd belay station straight down to the 2nd belay station, then from there to the ground, with about 20' to spare on double 60m ropes. Love those chickenheads!
By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Oct 10, 2011

It is possible to rappel off the back of this route with a single 70m rope in one rap if, once you gain the top, you head left and then back right down the obvious ramp. Take the ramp until it run outs (a bit precarious at the end, so watch your step) at a pair of cold shuts. With rope stretch, a single rap with the 70 places you 2 feet above the ground, at which point you can untie your safety knots (always tie these!) and reach the ground safely. The second just needs to be careful to rappel the bottom slowly, or have the first re-tie the knots. But, this way, you can climb the route with 1 rope and do only 1 rap (nice).
By Kevin Chuba
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 12, 2012

Great route to warm up on first thing in the morning. The hike to the base gets the blood flowing, yah. We simul climbed this great feature. Pretty sure I had about 32 quikdraws in total. Some extendable slings can help with the rope drag at the start. Had to run out a few bolts near the top so I recommend bringing a few more draws. If you and your partner have a packed i suggest to climb simul. We were up and down before the next crew made it to the top of P1.

Great climb to learn how to multipitch. Belay, rope managment, swapping leads, ect.
By Alan Lindsay
Jun 3, 2013

I just climbed the route again and would disagree that you can rap the west side with one 70m rope. I'm a pretty big guy and stretch a rope pretty well, but with stretch the ends were more like 10 feet above the ground.

I was hanging on the rope looking at the ends, just before the final face with about 10-15 feet of rope left. Maybe I could have gotten a few more feet of stretch out of it but it'd be a mighty unpleasant drop in my book.

Be careful
By Andrew Mayer
Sep 5, 2013

More Rap Beta - when I rapped the west side cold shuts with a single 70m rope as Matt describes, I was about 10 feet off the ground like Alan describes. was able to rap off the ends into a tree and downclimb the tree to the ground, slightly sketchy but doable if you really wanna get down with a single 70m.
By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Oct 25, 2013

Follow up: climbed the route again for my 4th time (7th time or so on top of Stripe), rapped again from the cold shuts with a 70m. It is doable. HOWEVER, the "2 feet above the ground" I stated earlier must have been a wishful memory - the rap leaves you about 8-10 feet off the ground, depending on if/where you tie safety knots. But, like the previous commentator said, it puts you at a tree that you can easily down climb. If you climbed 5.7 slab on the route without pulling on bolts, you should be able to down climb this tree.

I also distinctly remember having a much easier time on (read: getting off) this rappel if I don't tie knots in the end of my rope - a rare occurrence, but safe enough if you take it slow at the bottom. I basically just slide right off the ends and "hop" about 3 feet to the ground. Then, I fireman belay my 2nd from the bottom.

That or drag 2 ropes up. Pick your poison.
By Andy Shoemaker
Aug 18, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Thought this climb was highly overrated. Its not bad, but its just 3 pitches of the same slabby movements over and over. I loved Theater of Shadows and some of the other easy City clab routes, but I really didnt enjoy Cruel Shoes. Anyway, it is very possible, and easy/safe to rap down Poly-Stick-Em with one rope. We used a 70m for 4 raps, but I beleive a 60m would be just fine. NO NEED FOR 2 ROPES. As mentioned some shoulder lengths will help with rope drag on pitch one for the traverse.

Also, if you do this route in later in the afternoon (after 3pm in August) you will have shade the whole way up.