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(04) The Balcony
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Betty's Friend S,TR 
Betty's Redemption S 
Crow's Feet S 
Ego Terrorists S 
Purchase Agreement S 
Ten 'Til Eight S 
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Crow's Feet 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Halliday
Page Views: 108
Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Nov 5, 2007

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Rarely climbed, and with awkward and discontinuous climbing, this isn't one of the New Side's best offerings. Scramble up onto a boulder, clip the first bolt, then pull the steep varnished face above (crux). After that, just thrash through the lichen on the slab above to reach the anchor.


At the far right end of the Balcony (really between the Balcony and the Open Face Wall) is this single boltline. The climb starts on top of a large boulder. Rap off the anchor; it's a pain to walk off from this one.


5 bolts to a 2-bolt rap anchor. Yes, a rap anchor!

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By Arthur Sullivan
From: Albuquerque,NM
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The crux is between bolts 2 and 3 and felt more like 10d. Watch out for loose holds in the horizontal above bolt 2.
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