|Mount Royal (near Frisco)
Started out and scoped out by locals T4 and Peter, I joined in the fun for helping to wrap it up. As with other Royal routes, the pitch count and length can be either viewed as somewhat exaggerated or limited. It depends on your viewpoint. As Tim and Peter like to frequent these routes with people with less experience and stay within vocal and visual contact as much as possible, a belay is often available at the ledges before continuing. Other climbers will inevitably choose to link pitches and therefore report a much smaller number of climbing pitches.
Loose rock, lichen, and moss still exists, and though less consistent quality climbing may be available as for Royal Flush or Royal Rocklette ArÍte, some outstanding pitches are to be found on Crown Royal.
Just after the bike path sign, duck in to the woods on a well worn trail. Follow it for about 30m passing a piece of cord around a tree (if it is still there!), and then turn right and parallel the bike path onto no real obvious trail until reaching a prominent blobby formation of slab. A few more "markers" may be visible assisting in locating the beginning of the route. The first bolt may be visible about 10m up from the start.
Pitch #1: Climb up pleasant step-like slab up great rock to a ledge and two-bolt belay. 5.8, 25m.
Third Class up and left a via faint not too exposed trail and slab through the ledges to the next pitch. Find a cord around a tree possibly marking the belay. 40m, 1 bolt may be on the slab available for those who wish to belay this section.
Pitch #2: Climb to a roof, clip a bolt and trend up passing a few bolts and right to a slab and "wasserrinne" easily avoiding a loose looking, yet appealing flake on the right to a two-bolt belay. 5.7, 20m.
Pitch #3: "The coffee table pitch". Continue up and right up thin slab finally traversing past a dead snag and up to a two-bolt belay. 5.8, 20m.
Pitch #4: Climb a short easy and fun, but still dirty slab passing a bolt and fixed piton to a ledge. Walk up further and belay off one of the massive trees. 5.5, 20m.
Pitch #5: Continue up excellent rock passing some fixed protection towards a prominent arÍte and belay in a gully and two-bolt belay. 5.9, 15m.
Pitch #6: Cross the gully and climb a short finger crack to face moves over a tricky bulge to the awaiting crowning / arÍte above and great views in most directions to a two-bolt belay. 5.9+, 20m.
Pitch #7: Go straight back to the base of the the next section of rock. Climb the line of least resistance up a broken section of cliff. Pass a piton toward its end. Belay in the trees. 5.6, 25m.
Now, the climbers will find themselves at the start of the mid-wall scree field with Royal Flush up and right and the cairns leading toward Royal Rocklette ArÍte to the left. Scramble towards the wall and head towards the ArÍte. The next pitch begins about 15m to the right of Royal Rocklette ArÍte and at the base of the same wall.
Pitch #8: Climb a finger layback crack or wider crack to the right to a slabby bulge. Pass three bolts trending left to a dirty gully and reach a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 31m.
Pitch #9: Ascend the gully past some pruning work to a bolt in a corner. Tip toe up and left traversing an exposed steep ledge system to the corner and gear belay. 5.7, 25m.
Pitch #10: Climb up the ridge line following disconnected cracks trending left to an upper bolt on Pitch #13 of RRA and continue following that line to the summit. 5.7, 30m.
Finding the start of the route may be the crux until a path becomes more evident with time.
The pitches are quite aligned on the lower part of the climb and retreat is an easy option. Once on the upper wall, it is probably best to forge ahead and elect to walk off via the trail. Abseiling this lower wall is more straight forward then descending Royal Flush's or Royal Rocklette ArÍte's lower walls if need be.
Wear helmets! and be mindful of people probably below you. Royal is seeing an increase in traffic.
QDs, long slings, small assortment nuts and Camalots (C3s to #1).
As an interesting side note, Tim noted hearing Rob and Carrie drilling Aces High out to our right late in the same day while finishing the upper pitches. Looks good!
Logan an' I.
Logan an' I on the lower pitches.
|By Rob Griz|
Sep 13, 2011
Nice work, fellas! I know now I'm truly deaf as I never heard you up there. I guess I was preoccupied with dodging falling rock from some of the parties climbing the Flush.