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Feudal Wall (Left Side)
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Crown Jewels 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Wolfe and others, 1979
Page Views: 1,057
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Jan 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Lluis higher up. Photo by Scott Nomi.

Description 

Fun, two pitch climb. Third class scramble to the right of The Castrum to reach the base. Climb straight up past the obvious bolt. The moves above the bolt are greasy and harder than the 5.7 given in guidebooks, although they can be easily avoided with a 5.6 chute 10-20 feet to the right. Above that, the climbing eases up a bit, but is consistently fun. Most parties set a belay on the intermediate ledge to relieve rope drag. Run out the second pitch on fun 5.5-5.6 terrain. Popular.

Protection 

4 bolts (all 3/8"), standard rack and some shoulder-length slings. Best climbed in two pitches to avoid rope drag.


Photos of Crown Jewels Slideshow Add Photo
Shana Lauer at the crux.  Photo: Mike Morley
Shana Lauer at the crux. Photo: Mike Morley
Lluis Penalver-Aguila at the crux. Photo by Scott Nomi.
Lluis Penalver-Aguila at the crux. Photo by Scott ...
"Crown Jewels". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Crown Jewels".
Photo by Blitzo.
Parker Fagrelius seconding. Photo by Scott Nomi.
Parker Fagrelius seconding. Photo by Scott Nomi.

Comments on Crown Jewels Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 21, 2010
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 3, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I used a #4 nut to protect myself from decking before clipping the bolt (3/8"). The moves past the bolt are harder than 5.7, although I didn't move to the right as suggested.
By Josh Beck
Jan 4, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a pretty decent route. You definitely shouldn't go over to the gully to the right as you'd miss the business of the route.

It's my understanding, however, that something has broken off of this route, which is why it seems very hard for 5.7 :)

Felt like 5.9 to me and I've heard the same from a couple of others... like I said apparently the route has changed.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 5, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a



I agree!
By Brian Reynolds
Jan 8, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks this is a total sandbag at 5.7 -- I tried it as one of my first leads a couple of years ago, and got totally spanked trying to get past the first bolt (of course, right after I finally gave up, some 12-year-old kid flew right up it, but that's JT for ya'). 5.9 sounds about right.
By Woody Stark
Nov 24, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

We did this route yesterday as a warm-up! It's definitely a nine going by the bolt.
By Brian Alleyne
Nov 30, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Getting past the first bolt is NOT 5.7 by any stretch of the imagination. Good thing that it is well protected at that point. The rest of the route is 5.7 or easier. And very varied.

The route goes all the way to the top, and can be done as a single long route. Just go past the ledge, up the following double crack, over the dyke, and up the face past 3 more bolts. The walkdown is not too bad.
By The Gray Tradster
Nov 30, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A key hold has broken. It hasn't been 5.7 for several years
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 27, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A fun two-pitch outing that is worth doing if in the area. The FA of this was John Wolfe, which was discovered when replacing the original bolts on this route - the home-made hangers were stamped JCW.
By Brian in SLC
Jan 2, 2007
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Concur on it not being a 5.7! Its there, but, thin.
Got a great DMM peanut stopper prior to the bolt. Seemed bomber.
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Mar 16, 2009

Glad to see this listed as a 5.9 here; the crux definitely felt harder than the 5.7 in the old Vogel guidebook. The crux is definitely the moves around the bolt. The crimps are solid but small and sharp and smearing is the way to go. The move from the undercling to the upper seam is a fun little section!
By attila
Jan 25, 2010

Any beta on the descent? We ended up walking off the back (north/northeast) side.
By Randy
Oct 21, 2010

While it is certainly possible that John Wolfe did the FA, it is odd that he did not include this route in his 1979 guidebook.
By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 21, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Randy - not odd if it was done after the info for the guide was sent to the printers.