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 ADVANCED
Castle Rock
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Crown Jewel 
In and Out the Back Door 

Crown Jewel 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 215', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: KC Baum, Roped Solo
Page Views: 122
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on May 6, 2009
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Description 

Pitch 1: Climb 5.8 hands and fingers in a shallow corner system that trends left to right on soft rock and belay under a small roof (80 ft).

Pitch 2: Traverse right under the roof on sketchy, soft pegmatite and then go up the short, obvious finger crack on solid stone(5.10-). Continue to the top via discontinuous 5.9 crack (135 ft).

With the soft nature of much of the rock, and lack of sustained climbing, this route is hardly three stars as the guide book suggests.


Location 

The route ascends the only obvious line on the south face of Castle Rock.


Protection 

BD #0.3 - #4, set of stoppers, (1) extra #3, slings. Rap 60 ft from slings around boulder on north side of landform.



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