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Crossfire 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Alan Watts 5/84
Season: year round
Page Views: 3,756
Submitted By: Karsten on Jan 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Whipping at 2nd to last bolt. Again. This is the r...

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Crossfire is a striking line that requires a variety of climbing skills from handjams to tiny crimp cruxes and hellacious endurance. Slightly overhanging the entire way, the climbing is spectacular. Fantastic jams down low on Karate Crack lead to classic Smith face climbing up higher on nubins, pockets, and crimps. Several semi-rests make the marathon pitch seem plausible but still pumpy and interesting.

The route begins up Karate crack. As Karate Crack arches right, leave the crack and continue straight up the face. After placing a large cam in a pod above the crack you'll enter the sport part of the climb. This climb is commonly said to have two cruxes. One down low is reachy, thin, and crimpy but short while up higher you'll go through a sequential endurance sequence. There are several runout sections especially up high as you traverse to the left to finish. Mercifully the climbing is easier and the wall is steep but more than one climber has experienced an exhilarating fall there.

After topping out you can be lowered with a 70m or use the nearby Cinnamon slab to make two raps down.


Protection 

You'll need a 70m rope do be lowered off or do some easy downclimbing with a 60m.

One set of cams to a #3 camalot should get you through the Karate Crack section with an optional #4 camalot to place in a large pocket just above the crack. After leaving the large pocket you'll need 10-12 quickdraws to get you to the chains up top. Some people elect to use long runners on a few bolts up higher to minimize rope drag. Use of a light rope is also beneficial on this climb.


Photos of Crossfire Slideshow Add Photo
Clipping the first bolt above Karate Crack. Photo by Shay Skinner
Clipping the first bolt above Karate Crack. Photo ...
High up on the second Crux all pumped out.
High up on the second Crux all pumped out.
Moving to the first bolt. #4 camalot in the big pocket. Photo by Shay Skinner
Moving to the first bolt. #4 camalot in the ...
Crossfire, photo by Gin Lang
Crossfire, photo by Gin Lang

Comments on Crossfire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Sep 30, 2012

This climb is fun-believable. Amazing climbing on great rock. There is one small flake up high that is gonna come off one of these days, but it shouldnt affect too much. There is DEF 35ft fall potential up high... But they are safe, fun, and super soft. Seems like consensus is .12b on this one.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jan 20, 2013

The flake's gone... (it's now sitting a the base. Look for the random small, chalked chunk of stone) This climb is totally killer! Best 12b on the tuff?