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Melting Wall
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Bon Soir S 
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Climb of the Ancient Mariner S 
Cross Eyed S 
Melting Pot S 
Smoking Room, The S 

Cross Eyed 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: G. Collum, C. Carr, Jan 1996
Page Views: 1,090
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 29, 2006

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Tony B. climbing Crosseyed
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Of the few dozen routes I did, this one was my favorite route in the Railey/Ton Sai area. It is a long route with the crux a few bolts from the top and a big pump factor. Nice stems to a stalactite up top stop the pump clock after the small holds-crux a bolt or two before reaching the anchor.


Location 

Go left from the “hole” in from the path from the Fire Wall that enters to the Melting Wall. Go left past 4 short low-angle routes and up onto a ledge at the base of the wall, then left past a single bolted line, “Affenhitze.” The next route left, and 3rd from the left end of the wall is “Cross Eyed.” The route climbs up and left through continuously steep rock to a bolted anchor below a set of huge stalactites. I recall that a long rope was required to get off of this route, as the top lowers off to low ground below the base of the route.


Protection 

A dozen draws or more and a 60m rope to get down from the anchors up top.



Photos of Cross Eyed Slideshow Add Photo
Me leading Cross Eyed and sweating like Nixon, as the guidebook suggested I'd be.
Me leading Cross Eyed and sweating like Nixon, as ...
Getting horizontal for a clip on Cross Eyed
Getting horizontal for a clip on Cross Eyed
Comments on Cross Eyed Add Comment
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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

"There is a God, and obviously he is a climber." - Sam Lightner Jr.

This is probably one of the single best pitches on Laem Phra Nang. If you clip the chains from the slopey jugs below the rings, you didn't finish! I already moved the anchor back to it's original height once but I think someone's lowered it again. Don't cheat yourself!