Follow the bolts over some nice varied climbing across a small slab, then directly upward through a small roof. For the sport version, go strait up following the bolts to a two bolt belay atop the cliff and walk off the top. For much more fun and exposed climbing move left after the small roof following a thin crack to a two bold hanging belay (these bolts add to the experience as they are old and you are hanging over 150 feet of dead vertical face!) These are bolts, not chains or rap hangers so if you want to rap off them you will have to leave gear. It is better to to the worlds shortest 2nd pitch and send your second up the easy terrain to the two bolt belay up and left about 10 feet. Three stars if you follow the crack
This route starts 4 bolt lines to the right of the short and fun techno savage.
Strait up, quickdraws, moving out right for the good finish, very thin to 2 inch gear. Bring two ropes if you don't want to walk off!!!
Jan 28, 2008
Is the gear variation to "P1" also 5.10?
From: missoula, mt
Feb 21, 2008
Yes, be solid for the grade because the gear is not that good. Also, instead of belaying off of the bolts that the crack leads to, clip a quick draw into the anchors then climb up and left about 10 feet for a much more comfortable belay off of big cold shuts.