Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Select Route:
Crocs mignons et vieilles dentelles S 

Crocs mignons et vieilles dentelles 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 330'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,646
Submitted By: HTP on Jun 30, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Five slab-tastic pitches of fun, with a nice dihedral thrown in on pitch four for good measure. The right side of the crag was crawling with other parties when we arrived, but no one was on this climb on the left side. We thought it was a score.

P1: Follow the easy slab past frequent bolts to snake left above the first overhang and right below the next. French rating: 4c
P2: More vertical climbing and fewer bolts this pitch a little more interesting. French rating: 4b, but felt harder.
P3: Crux pitch. Sparsely bolted. A petit peu bold! French rating: 5b
P4: Dihedral pitch--short, but fun after the slabs. French rating: 5a
P5: Exit pitch over easy but mossy slabs to the chain atop the cliff. Belay off anchors, not the chains.


Left side of the Vallorcine crag. Look for a route that starts left of the overhangs and skirts between them to the right. According to the guidebook (Crag Climbs in Chamonix, by Francois Burnier and Dominique Potard), this is the left-most multipitch route, but once you're a pitch up, the routes branch and seem to go all over the rock. Take a topo if you don't want to accidentally end up on a 6a+ pitch.


Fully equipped, as they say in France, but the middle pitches are sparsely bolted. Next time I'd bring a small rack of stoppers, maybe some smallish cams to try to supplement the run-out sections.

Each belay station has a giant, single D-ring (popular anchor in this area) cemented into the wall.

Comments on Crocs mignons et vieilles dentelles Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!