Critical Morass 

A great route that will really "keep you on your toes" quite literally! No perceptible "crux" but fairly sustained from the 1st to 4th bolt. The headwall will also keep your interest. I'll stick with Rick's rating on this one too. However, because the anchors are set at least 20-30 ' past the headwall on 4th class terrain with a perfect ledge available on top of the headwall to call it quits, I'm going to say only 2 stars in my book. Any thoughts on the anchor placement, Rick? Also, even with a 60m rope, I just made it back down to a ledge where I could untie and walk off (totally safe). So, your belayer needs to stay on the ball as you get near the ground.

This climb is great.. - balancy, sustained, beautiful exposure - you name it... but yeah - after the bulge it kinda gets dumb and 5.6ish and a little too much rope drag- still worth it though... and a 60 m rope will barely be enough to lower, but it's an ez step off from the 1st bolt if you run out of rope... all four of the climbs on this wall are very good... the 9 next to it is also quite good, and the ez climb on the arete is a gorgeous photo op with Lily Lake in the background

Very nice route, but the anchor is currently very unsafe. The right-hand bolt is extremely loose -- it wiggles significantly even when the nut is hand-tightened as much as possible -- and the left bolt might also be loose. Be careful! (We were concerned enough to downclimb to the anchor on the route to the left before lowering.)

Given the comments from people above, perhaps if this anchor is replaced because of the bad bolt(s) it should be moved lower...

Excellent pitch, but definitely not 11a. Probably 10c/d. Apart from the anchors, all bolts are placed exactly where you want them. Following Dougald's comment, I clipped the last protection bolt then angled down to the anchor on the left, to avoid the Critical Morass anchor. The party after us went to the CM anchor, and said that it didn't seem too bad; one bolt slightly loose. Maybe someone did some repairs. Either way, a pitch not to be missed.

The anchor seems OK as of 6/23/05. Not fantastic, but fine. The bolts are a touch loose, so the hangers can move a little (I'd rather they were tight), but they seemed safe to us. We used them without concern.

As of 6-16 the bolts/anchors all seemed perfectly safe. Good route, nice beginning.

Great Route!!! Balancy, with a great variety of moves. I would recommend a mantle of some sorts to get past the crux!

Not as good looking as the Edge of Time, but much better climbing.

Good enough route if you're in the area but not spectaclar.

Real good route. Had no trouble with the crux, a fun left foot high step and right hand mantle move. The headwall was interesting as I took a little time figuring out the best sequence for me. My 60 m rope made it to the ground no problem.

Well equipped. Super friction. 10a, no harder. Good quality moves through lower crux section and then higher up through seam.