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University Wall
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Critical Mass 
Le Pumping Bull 
Room With A View 
Skinwalker, The 
White Punks on Rope 

Critical Mass 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Darryl Roth, Richard Aschert, August '87
Page Views: 573
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 22, 2010
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CM is red, yellow is Pocket Rocket.

Description 

Perhaps Shelf's first 5.13 lead, Critical Mass climbs an amazing, bulging buttress of exquisite, bullet limestone. The business comes quick with a brutal "B2" boulder problem on poor crimps to reach a sinker 2-finger pocket at the first bolt. The crux ends with a big move to reach a large, flat edge at the 2nd bolt. The angle relents as the line moves left, into a scoop, past a bit of a runout to reach the third bolt. More featured black stone leads to a sloping ledge with a small dead tree halfway up the cliff. Continue up the steep, black headwall to the top of the cliff. No anchor.


Location 

About 100' right of The Skinwalker is an overhanging hand crack (named "Pocket Rocket") in an orange wall. Critical Mass is the line of bolts 20' right of this crack.


Protection 

9 bolts, no anchor. Stick clip mandatory for 1st bolt.



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