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Zoo Wall
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Big Flush, The 
Body Suit 
Closed Heimer 
Conflict In Terms 
Crazy Alice 
Critical Mass 
Dihedral, The 
Dr. Coolhead 
Extended Altar Call 
Fantasy Roof 
Flying Nun Variation 
Flying Nun, The 
Knuckle Sandwich 
Larin Has Balls 
Leap Frog 
Little Roof (aka Small Roof) 
Masters of Reality 
McBride's Mind 
No Stone Unturned 
Resurrection Factor 
Richard Pryor Route 
Scrotum Roof 
Shake and Bake 
Side Saddle 
Slap Roof 
Sloth 
Squeeze Play 
Straight Face 
Sundown Dihedral 
Sweet Jesus 
Time the Avenger 
Too Much Fun 
Triple Decker 
Unfinished Piece, The 
Yellow Corner 
Unsorted Routes:

Critical Mass 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, TR, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
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Submitted By: Craig Childre on Sep 27, 2006
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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb up the slab and then make 3-6 moves through the roof crack to the lip(crux) then move up into a nice handcrack above.


Location 

The easy slab that is just to the right of the main roof section in the middle of Zoo Wall. Look for the roof about 40-50 feet up with a single splitter that is divided at the lip.


Protection 

All gear.



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By Herndon
Feb 11, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This is actually a great route. The crack is kind of wavy in width, so you just find the spots that fit you and mild the jams.

I think that this is a super sandbag at .10b. For a while there it was rated .11a by a lot of people who know better.

By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Mar 4, 2010

10b is the old school rating... example... Dr. Coolhead was rated 10a by the Lohn book, which it's been upgraded to 10d, a more appropriate letter in my book.