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 ADVANCED
(3) Red Wall
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Anastasia TR 
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Critical Mass S 
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Kashmir S 
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No Friction T 
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Sheer Energy T,S 
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Thai Stick S 

Critical Mass 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 1981 R. McGown, Scott Woolums
Page Views: 1,340
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jul 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Tim Slater working on Sheer Stress.

Description 

Critical Mass starts with the 5.10a face/crack Sheer Stress (the holds on this section are polished so it's a bit trickier than it'd normally be). From the anchors continue up and right past six more bolts to an anchor. The crux comes 2/3 of the way to the top at a large bulge. I found all of the clipping stances to be a bit reachy although with quickdraws hung they would be much better.

This route feels like a series of linked boulder problems, in that there are a few tricky sections followed by excellent rests.

The top of the climb ends with a fun series of slab moves and you can continue up the final pitch of Red Eye (5.10c) to the top of the wall.


Location 

In the middle of the Red Wall. Start at the bolt line a few feet climber's left of the tree in the middle of the wall.


Protection 

Quickdraws and a 60m rope are really all that's needed, although I found a place for a yellow Alien near the bottom; a couple of pieces of this size might be good for piece of mind. There are 3 bolts before the intermediate anchors and then 6 more before reaching the top.



Photos of Critical Mass Slideshow Add Photo
front and center starting about 25 feet up past the thorn bushes
front and center starting about 25 feet up past th...
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By Adam Therneau
Jun 1, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is a great, varied climb. It makes for a great fully bolted sport pitch by linking it with Thai Stick. Only drawback is the bolt placements; a few are in awkward, hard to reach spots.

By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 18, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I think combining this with Thai Stick for the start is the way to go. A long runner before you launch into the overhang is a good idea.

By ChiHarris
Sep 20, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great climb, awkward cruz makes you think, safe falls, NOT POLISHED:)