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a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Criss Cross Direct 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pete Ramins, John Stannard, 1971
Page Views: 2,384
Submitted By: Mike fenice on May 23, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: This may or may not be waiting for you at the top ...

Description 

A classis route that begins with a strenuous layback! Start 25' left of Criss, at a 10'-high right-facing corner with a hand crack that goes through the bulging overhang above the corner. This is about 30' right of Broken Sling.

P1: Jam and layback up the crack, then climb straight up past a fixed pin and several small overhangs to a tiny stance and belay (fixed anchor may or may not be here - see comments). A #.75 Camalot protects the bouldery moves up to the pin. 5.10a, 60'.

From lucander: Be advised - as of March 2011, someone has dismantled the anchor above pitch 1. Instead of a couple old pitons and an assortment of tiny nuts placed at various angles and directions in the horizontal all tied together with an equalized anchor, there is now only a couple of nuts all facing for a leftward pull and "equalized" with a cold shut. Pitons and some of the nuts are gone. I'd fix this up but know nothing about piton craft.

P2: Seldom done these days. Move up and left past a small left-facing corner, then up past an overhang to another left-facing corner and a roof. Exit right and continue to the top. 120'.


Protection 

Standard Gunks rack



Photos of Criss Cross Direct Slideshow Add Photo
BP on the 1st pitch of Criss Cross 9-2010
BP on the 1st pitch of Criss Cross 9-2010
BGraham about to take his turn on Criss Cross Direct. Early crux pictured
BGraham about to take his turn on Criss Cross Dire...
Comments on Criss Cross Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By gilp
Mar 31, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Tricky climb for 5.10 a. Harder now that the feet are all polished on the lower section. Full value though.

By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008

Did this route Spring '78; led 2nd pitch. I recall a small stopper shortly off the belay, and that was it for next 15 ft or so. The runout's on a beautiful face--a couple 5.9 moves halfway but all nice edging, nothing weird. Keep in balance and think it through. Fond recollection of being confident, focused, moving easily, totally unaware of the unpleasant fall.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 18, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

Link both pitches into 1 with careful long sling placement- its better this way. Also- 5.9 and very R above the short first pitch anchor.

By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

As of March 2011, someone has dismantled the anchor above pitch 1. Instead of a couple old pitons and an assortment of tiny nuts placed at various angles and directions in the horizontal all tied together with an equalized anchor, there is now only a couple of nuts all facing for a leftward pull and "equalized" with a cold shut. Pitons and some of the nuts are gone.

I'd fix this up but know nothing about piton craft.

By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Oct 23, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Climbed this October 15, the anchor remains in the same condition as it appeared in my previous condition report. A 150 lb. climber rapped off off this "anchor", but this collection of small rusted stoppers is only going to get worse as the years pass.

By R. Ruef
Mar 5, 2012

Great climb. Tricky sequence at the start, but very reasonable. Doesn't ease up too much after the early crux, looks juggy from the ground, but a little more slopey once you're up there. Awkward moves finish the climb.

Climbed this on 2/26/12. Took some photos of the mannk-or atop the first pitch (will post). Left a couple of offsets equalized below as backup, they're probably bootied by now. I'm all for keepin' it trad, but this climb would definitely benefit from a bolt or two to back up the nuts at the top of the first pitch (or at least a piton).

By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Mar 14, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Ruef's anchor isn't there. The 4 rusty nuts are still in place, would be nice if someone knowledgeable in piton craft could replace the pins that disappeared a year or two ago.

By paulmadry
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

There is no good reason to avoid pitch 2 (5.9?). There is a stretch of maybe 10-12 feet with no pro on a 5.7 face. It's PG if you do the route in one longer pitch. Maybe that's why the belay was disassembled. I'd think that relaying on the piton at the start of pitch 1 is more R than the 2nd pitch.

By Sean McAuley
Oct 17, 2013

I'm with Lucander on this one, there should be a solid piton anchor placed on the first pitch. First off running both pitches together will put your second in serious decking potential through the crux, second if you do belay at the top of the first pitch it's fairly difficult to back up that anchor with equalized gear, and finally if the leader would blow the 5.8ish runout at the start of the second pitch they'd fall directly onto that pos set of rusty nuts. Additionally, the wires on those rusted nuts will go and take away the opportunity for good gear there (similar to the two blown wires on birdcage right now). Just place a few pins and make this awesome climb safer.