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Biomechanoid S 
Chocolate Thunder S 
Citizen of Time S 
Crisis In Utopia T 
D'Antonio Approach S 
Dangle Your Participle S 
Hammertime S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
Just Say No To Jugs S 
Just Say Yes To Fingercrack T 
Lubme S 
Overkill S 
Overlard (aka Foops) S 
Overlichen S 
Overloord S 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack T 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females S 
Primal Scream S 
Putterman Gully Jump S 
Route 7 S 
Route 8 S 
Sandy Pocket Crack T 
Toprope face (unknown) TR 
Unknown (crack left of Overlord) T 
Unknown (crack right of Overlard) T 
Vanilla Crack T 
Vasoconstrictor S 
View with a Room S 

Crisis In Utopia 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Peter Gram and Susie Murphy
Page Views: 911
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Aug 30, 2007

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On his way to a solid onsight, Mike Wheat makes th...


This is an awesome finger crack up a left leaning open book that is very clean for the meat of the route. It starts via a fifth class scramble up to the crack proper. The bottom and top sections can be technically, a little cruxy. It remains fairly continuous at the grade, but the endurance crux is about 2/3rds of the way up. Can you say finger locks? This stellar route deserves to see a lot more traffic than it does. Go climb it!


This is the obvious stunning finger crack in an open book directly to the left of Primal Scream.


Medium stoppers, a double set of Aliens, and a few runners, get you to a two bolt chained anchor.

Photos of Crisis In Utopia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tigger ran onto a bat in the crack on this send of...
Tigger ran onto a bat in the crack on this send of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Barto getting some business started with Crisis in...
Barto getting some business started with Crisis in...

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By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 8, 2008

This crack is the best one I have done at The Overlook, and is definitely one of the best at its grade in all of White Rock.

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