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 ADVANCED
North/West side
Routes Sorted
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Biomechanoid 
Chocolate Thunder 
Citizen of Time 
Crisis In Utopia 
D'Antonio Approach 
Dangle Your Participle 
Hammertime 
Huecos Rancheros 
Just Say No To Jugs 
Just Say Yes To Fingercrack 
Lubme 
Overkill 
Overlard (aka Foops) 
Overlichen 
Overloord 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females 
Primal Scream 
Putterman Gully Jump 
Route 7 
Route 8 
Sandy Pocket Crack 
Toprope face (unknown) 
Unknown (crack left of Overlord) 
Unknown (crack right of Overlard) 
Vanilla Crack 
Vasoconstrictor 
View with a Room 

Crisis In Utopia 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Peter Gram and Susie Murphy
Page Views: 760
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Aug 30, 2007
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On his way to a solid onsight, Mike Wheat makes th...

Description 

This is an awesome finger crack up a left leaning open book that is very clean for the meat of the route. It starts via a fifth class scramble up to the crack proper. The bottom and top sections can be technically, a little cruxy. It remains fairly continuous at the grade, but the endurance crux is about 2/3rds of the way up. Can you say finger locks? This stellar route deserves to see a lot more traffic than it does. Go climb it!


Location 

This is the obvious stunning finger crack in an open book directly to the left of Primal Scream.


Protection 

Medium stoppers, a double set of Aliens, and a few runners, get you to a two bolt chained anchor.



Photos of Crisis In Utopia Slideshow Add Photo
Tigger ran onto a bat in the crack on this send of Crisis in Utopia. It had a spooky hiss and showed teeth as he climbed by.
Tigger ran onto a bat in the crack on this send of...
Barto getting some business started with Crisis in Utopia.
Barto getting some business started with Crisis in...
Comments on Crisis In Utopia Add Comment
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By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 8, 2008

This crack is the best one I have done at The Overlook, and is definitely one of the best at its grade in all of White Rock.