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 ADVANCED
Holds Up Bluff North
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Beer and Smear 
Block Dance 
Cripple Crack 
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Fear and Smear 
Seaweed Patch 

Cripple Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,471
Submitted By: Kurt Johnson on Apr 6, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Cripple Crack

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Description 

A classic beginners route, either on lead or toprope, and is just plain fun. Because of this it's usually crowded, but worth the wait.

Head up the crack using mostly face holds to the chain anchors.


Location 

Look for the obvious crack system just right of the short but fat right-facing dihedral (where you'll find Fear and Smear), set back from the road.


Protection 

Standard rack



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By gregybn
Apr 8, 2008

A blocky crack and ledge route... takes nice cam placements all the way (great for beginning leaders)... an interesting mini-roof move at the crux that protects very well (I think with a #3 Friend)... then run out the low angle crack to the top.