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Cactus Cliff
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Crimpson Candy 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Musso, 2000
Page Views: 833
Submitted By: Barrett Cooper on Jan 19, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Larry workin' it high on Crimpson Candy.

Description 

Left of Funkdemental and The Raven, this climb is a little deceptive for 10b. Start at a prominent reddish block. Climb up over the bright red rock and stand atop it for the second clip. From there the rating gets more accurate and you can go left of the arete or straight on to the bolts. Either way you go you will have to use some balance to clip as the route does not have a lot of easy clip stances. Layback and undercling the corner block just before the anchors. It is probably easier to clip the anchors if you get into the crack above and to their right as trying to stretch out to the anchors from below was unbalanced.


Protection 

8 [now updated to 9] bolts to anchors.



Photos of Crimpson Candy Slideshow Add Photo
Cactus Cliff - Right (1). <br /> <br />The Price is Right is now named Legend on the Fall. <br /> <br />La Estacion de Shelf is now named La Temperatura de Shelf.
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (1).

The Price is Right is n...
BETA PHOTO
Larry Rossi leading Crimpson Candy.
Larry Rossi leading Crimpson Candy.
Climber leading Crimpson Candy.
Climber leading Crimpson Candy.
Comments on Crimpson Candy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darin Lang
Jan 30, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The bolt placement makes the last layback/undercling before the anchors a bit more ... ennervating .. than other climbs at Cactus. Reasonably fun route with good variety.

By Edward Jenner
Dec 15, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Didn't like this one at all. The sort-of-fun moves at the end don't make up for the rest of the climb. We also lowered off the rings and got our rope really badly twisted. I'd not recommend this route, but if you have a go then rap off the anchors.

Glad to see Darin rate it a bit higher than 10b because I thought it was hard compared to other 10a/b's at Cactus. On the other hand, it may have just felt hader because I wasn't enjoying myself.

By Jeff St. Pierre
Dec 29, 2003

A couple Alien placements helped de-spice the "balancey" bolt-clips. The guidebook says something along the lines of "when the going gets tough, head left around the corner." However, I felt that sets you up for a pendulum into the corner... especially when heading left at the anchor, which I saw a couple people do. It's a lengthy run to the anchor, and while the hands are bomber, the feet are thin (going straight up, not left), and a whoops might not be such a clean fall. Not a bad route, but I don't think I'd do it again.

By Michael J Yarros
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 3, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Enjoyed climbing this route. Gets thin near the anchor.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 15, 2012

Anchor setup needs some work. Currently rings with single quicklinks on each. The quicklinks are facing the wall, so it will twist the hell out of your rope if you use both of them. Either add another set of quicklinks (so they are facing the right way) or remove them and plan to rap off the ring bolts.

By Sarah Meiser
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 7, 2013

I (nervously) enjoyed this climb, but it isn't as safe as most of the other routes in the area. Solid 5.10 leaders will have no problem; new or shaky ones may. There is serious deck potential on a ledge down low, and at the top it is very runout to the anchor on nontrivial terrain.