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 ADVANCED
Lower Major Mass
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Archeopteryx T,TR 
Archway Cookie T,TR 
Blue Slab T,TR 
Cat Fight T,TR 
Cat Walk T,TR 
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 
Congestion Chimney T,TR 
Cookie Cutter T,TR 
Cookie Cutter Direct TR 
Crimps and Misdemeanors T,TR 
Dippy Diagonal T,TR 
Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) T,TR 
Earnings Summary T,TR 
Goodbye Youth T 
Innocence T,TR 
Kenosis T,TR 
King's Corner T,TR 
Left Face of TM Overhang T,TR 
Loco Head T,TR 
Mental Block TR 
Microwave Dinner T,TR 
Mindless Dribble TR 
No Rest For the Wicked T,TR 
Puffs Plus T,TR 
Red Slab T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 1 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 2 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 3 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 4 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 5 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 5-1/2 T 
Seventh Buttress 6 T,TR 
Sure Shot TR 
TM Overhang T,TR 
West Michigan T,TR 
Wicker Man T,TR 

Crimps and Misdemeanors 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ????
Season: All year. Fall is best. If it is in the sun in winter.
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on May 8, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The route "Innocence" marked in green li...

Description 

The crux is just below the ledge at 1/2 height.
Great climbing on sharp edges (very small to big) in the first half and great slab climb in the second half. FUN!

Location 

This climbs ascends the face to the right of the route "Innocence". Start far right on edges and crimps to gain a good horizontal then move left across the face until established under a neat little right facing corner. Pull edges straight up from here (crux) to gain a ledge and rest. Ascend the great slab climbing above staying for the most part in the middle and not using features off to either side. Fun Slab moves with great mantle technique needed to make it all look good.

Protection 

It is a somewhat sketchy lead but is a lead. Take small to medium cams for the horizontals and then RPs and Ball Buts for the incipient cracks in between. The first 15 feet are un-protected unless the climber utilizes side gear! The upper slab has great pro in horizontals but it will always be at your feet for the hard moves.


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