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Crimpin' and Pimpin' 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Aschert, D'Antonio
Season: cooler weather is best
Page Views: 230
Submitted By: slim on Mar 13, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Crimpin' and Pimpin' starts on the right side of t...

Description 

Crimpin' and Pimpin' is a route that sees very little traffic, probably due to the guidebook recommending advil and tape for a painful excursion. While the route isn't really that brutal on the fingers, there are a handful of unfortunate factors that will ensure that it never becomes a trade route. I haven't ever seen anybody else on it.

I highly recommend belaying from the big ledge, at the third bolt. It would be pretty tough to keep the climber from hitting the ledge if they came off trying to clip at the crux, which is fairly probable.

Start on the right side of a massive, tombstone flake and climb through 2 bolts of fun 5.easy to get to the ledge. Bring your partner up to this pleasant hang, high above the masses....

From the ledge, fire up really fun, straightforward 5.10 climbing on great edges and pockets to a powerful crux at the 4th bolt. If you aren't dangling from the rope at this point, gingerly flip the rope through the draw and continue upwards to a not-difficult but somewhat awkward mantle that is not well protected (a finger-sized cam is helpful here, it may be underwater during wet periods).

Cop a well earned rest and charge up on really fun climbing that quickly devolves into vertical texture climbing. A merciful allocation of good hands (but awkward feet) appear just in time to clip the chains. In periods of wet weather, this upper part can stay damp. Also, there is a ledge below you the whole time and one or two of the clips are kind of iffy.

There are several sections of really cool climbing on this route, but be aware of the ledges.

Location 

This is 2 routes to the right of Illegal Smile. There are 2 bolt lines that start up a massive flake/block to a large ledge. This is the right hand one.

Protection 

It has approximately 12 bolts and anchors. A finger-sized cam is helpful up high, but during wet periods, the placement will be under water. I recommend belaying on the big ledge, using the 3rd bolt as an anchor. You can also use the 3rd bolt of Centurion Enigma (to the left) as a 2nd anchor bolt.


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