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The Crimpfest Wall
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Crimpfest 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: The Head Crew
Page Views: 1,218
Submitted By: richard magill on Dec 17, 2001
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Description 

This is a very high quality crimping extravaganza. It is dead vertical and requires good footwork as well as microedging ability. The crux comes near the end of the route.

It is currently the third route from the left edge of the Crimpfest wall. The first route is an unnamed 12a/b. Right of that is Crocodile Rock. The next line is Crimpfest.


Protection 

9 bolts.



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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Sep 17, 2008

Great route! pumpy and sequential. Thought the clip at the crux was harder than the crux but fantastic route.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Oct 10, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Wow, fantastic climb!! This thing features absolutely exquisite technical vertical edge climbing. In fact, I think that the quality is up there with some of better vertical face (12a) climbs I have done....definitely better than Flesh for Lulu at Rumney and on par with Choke Cherry Eyes at the Iris and Illuminati on Shuteye Ridge.

However, folks should be aware that there is a fairly large flake at the 4th bolt that is just waiting to be torn off. The flake is in two pieces and while the upper-right portion is solid, the lower-left portion (which is likely what most people will reach for) is likely going to come off in the near future. Anyway, belayers beware.