|By J. Albers|
Oct 10, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Wow, fantastic climb!! This thing features absolutely exquisite technical vertical edge climbing. In fact, I think that the quality is up there with some of better vertical face (12a) climbs I have done....definitely better than Flesh for Lulu at Rumney and on par with Choke Cherry Eyes at the Iris and Illuminati on Shuteye Ridge.
However, folks should be aware that there is a fairly large flake at the 4th bolt that is just waiting to be torn off. The flake is in two pieces and while the upper-right portion is solid, the lower-left portion (which is likely what most people will reach for) is likely going to come off in the near future. Anyway, belayers beware.