Crimp Scampi  5.11a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  head crew, 2001 Submitted By:  richard magill on Aug 1, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5280647.pdf. For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Try the Crimp Scampi - a nice appetizer at the Cafe.

This is a very nice line with interesting moves. It is the only thing that feels like a warmup at this crag, with only a single 11a move on the line. However, this route has nice continuity and plenty of 5.10 maneuvering before and after the crux.

I usually avoid giving much beta, but I will make an exception here - when the going gets tough, think right hand layaway and get your feet high. Then start a long reach to a blind hold - when you think you can't go any higher, go a little further. The left hand hold is good, and the insecure movement out of this position will get your blood pumping.

If you are still hungry for more, you can try a big plate of Blood Monkey next.

Crimp Scampi is the 2nd from the rightmost route on the Hangdog Cafe.

Protection 

7 bolts.