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Try the Crimp Scampi - a nice appetizer at the Cafe.
This is a very nice line with interesting moves. It is the only thing that feels like a warmup at this crag, with only a single 11a move on the line. However, this route has nice continuity and plenty of 5.10 maneuvering before and after the crux.
I usually avoid giving much beta, but I will make an exception here - when the going gets tough, think right hand layaway and get your feet high. Then start a long reach to a blind hold - when you think you can't go any higher, go a little further. The left hand hold is good, and the insecure movement out of this position will get your blood pumping.
If you are still hungry for more, you can try a big plate of Blood Monkey next.
Crimp Scampi is the 2nd from the rightmost route on the Hangdog Cafe.
|By Brian Simonds|
From: Golden, CO
Aug 4, 2008
This is no longer the rightmost climb on Hangdog Cafe. There is another climb to the right of Crimp Scampi and is distinguished since it is the only one with stainless hangers. From the ground, it appears much easier than the other routes on the wall.
BTW- CS is great fun. Bon appetit!
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
This is fun route that provides a nice warmup. Along with the 10a to the right (Chossburger), Crimp Scampi provides a nice, logical warmup progression for the crag. Also, it is handy for working on the 12c to the left (Dyne and Dash).