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45 Boulder
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Crimp Chimp 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Luke Laeser and Casey something
Page Views: 1,672
Submitted By: Matthew NM on Jul 2, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Some good holds after
the cruxy crimps on
Crimp C...

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Description 

Fairly steep bouldery/fingery climbing up the farthest route right on the right side of the 45deg boulder. Fun.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor



Photos of Crimp Chimp Slideshow Add Photo
Kendo nears the end of  <br />the STEEP STUFF! on <br />Crimp Chimp (5.12a)
Kendo nears the end of
the STEEP STUFF! on
Crimp ...
fun, short, bouldery and vury steep. The reason why this isn't a 4 star is cause the crux is low, after that there are some big moves but all on jugs
fun, short, bouldery and vury steep. The reason wh...
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By Laeserguns
Jan 30, 2008

I bolted this one with a guy who was working at the santa fe rock gym. Casey something... anyway. Peter wasn't around for that one. One of my favorites at the dungeon. I think the second route.

By Dave Wachter
Apr 26, 2009

Excellent route. Particularly challenging in early afternoon (at least during spring) when you pull onto the upper section and the sun hits you right in the eyes.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 13, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Stickclip bolt 2 if 12a is hard for you, especially if you don't have the beta dialed. The technical crux (just before bolt 2) appears to be somewhat height/reach-dependent, and the 2nd clip can be dicey sometimes. Angle right after clipping the 3rd bolt to stay on Crimp Chimp, which starts what is generally the redpoint crux. Although most find it a bit more difficult than the other popular 12-'s, Against Nature and Moat Jump, strong people who regularly climb steep stuff may find Crimp Chimp to be easier, as there are a lot of options for feet, and it's a bit more straightforward to read than those climbs.

Oh, and don't be deterred by the name: it's not as heinously crimpy as suggested.

An alternate, slightly harder (5.12b) finish to this climb angles left from bolt 3 past an independent bolt to the Tendon Bendin' anchors. It's worthy if you're bored of the same old Crimp Chimp, but is not as good as the normal finish. It has a big move where the climb diverges from Crimp Chimp. Also, using the same-link-up bolt, one can also cross from Tendon Bender into the end of Crimp Chimp ("Moonboot Mission", 12c, which I haven't tried); that seems a less logical line and would climb through some choss after the lip but adds a couple more hard moves to Tendon Bender.