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Once past the the initial 10', this excellent route is a technical face climb up the tips crack with gear for protection. I found crux moves 20' - 30' high and in the final 15'. Allegedly, a fixed piton(s) protected the upper crux section at one time but is no longer present. I used BD #2 and #3 microstoppers to sew up the seam, hence the PG13 rating.
Begin just right of Gruff on the right side of the Wildfire Wall.
Many small camming units and very small - medium stoppers are required for pro. I didn't use anything larger than a #1 TCU. Rappel off of the anchors at the top of Gruff.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13
Awesome TR after Gruff. You'll want a directional (green C3 worked). Would be a heady lead at the top......