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Crime of the Century 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Waugh & Nick Badyrka, January 1978
Page Views: 2,307
Submitted By: David Evans on Jan 1, 2002
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Description 

Hard moves over a roof (the crux) to a strenuous handcrack lead to a ledge with rap anchor. The upper part is seldom done but continues up steep and varied crack climbing.


Protection 

Standard rack to 3"



Photos of Crime of the Century Slideshow Add Photo
Cranking the roof
Cranking the roof
Richard Shore grabs the onsight on Crime of the Century 5.11a. Photo by Shane Saunders
Richard Shore grabs the onsight on Crime of the Ce...
At the lip of the roof on Crime of the Century (5.11a), Joshua Tree NP. Photo by Jeff Brown.
At the lip of the roof on Crime of the Century (5....
Above the roof on Crime of the Century (5.11a), Joshua Tree NP. Photo by Jeff Brown.
Above the roof on Crime of the Century (5.11a), Jo...
Roy McClenahan, 1982
Roy McClenahan, 1982
Crime of the Century! A definite MUST DO!!!!
Crime of the Century! A definite MUST DO!!!!
taken by janet <br />
taken by janet
Comments on Crime of the Century Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

A nice climb with a "sport climber's" start up overhanging jugs to reach the slanting hand crack. Rap off anchors on a ledge 50' up or grovel up an unpleasant chimney to finish.

By Murf
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The second pitch is worth doing once, thin crack to chimmney.

By Randy
Nov 10, 2003

The "official" info that Tony Yaniro was on FA is actually incorrect. Tony showed this line to Mike and Nick and they all bouldered up it (doing the crux) and climbed back down. They agreed to return when they had more time to lead the entire route. The next weekend, Tony didn't show so Mike and Nick did the route w/o Tony. Tony later sent in FA info to Mountain Magazine crediting FA to he, Mike & Nick, because he had done the crux earlier. This info got picked up and was used in all guides since. It has been corrected in Vol.1. as have a number of other long standing FA mistakes.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 25, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Protects well. Stays a little steeper than you might expect after the roof. If it's cold (this face stays a bit chilly) or you're super gassed (like I was), you may want a 3.5" piece to protect the last body length or so to the belay (which I didn't have, but a tipped out #3 camalot worked ok). The climbing is dead easy in that last little bit with plentiful face holds to help out, you certainly don't NEED a 3.5...but when you can't feel your fingers or close your hand...you might want one.

By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Apr 26, 2012

The hardest part of this lead was catching my 180lb second when he failed to turn the roof. Determined, I think he pulled it on his 5th go. I recall the upper crack being enjoyable, but maybe a tad anti-climactic?