Crime and Punishment 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Tim Kemple Sr. 11/96 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Sep 15, 2010 |
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Description If you havent had enough steep burly 5.11 climbing after doing Cerial Killer (5.11c) continue to the ledge and do this powerful second pitch. Interesting tricky moves up STEEP bulges on great rock.
From the anchor on the ledge above Cerial Killer step left and climb the bulges trending left passing a fixed draw to an anchor just short of the top of the cliff.
After pulling the first bulge I was drained and hoping that the next bulge was a lot easier. It wasn't, you can plan on keeping your gameface on until the end.
Location Starting from the anchor on the ledge above Cerial Killer (5.11c) climbing up and left.
Protection 6 bolts to anchor.
One of the anchor bolts was twisted sideways and put crazy kinks in my rope. Could use a quick link extension I think.
| Comments on Crime and Punishment |
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By S. Neoh
Sep 15, 2010
| Lee, how timely of a write-up! Just when I am tired of the A&D Wall (sorry your trad 5.8 next to Anchovy is not reason enough for another visit), you spring this route on me. Thanks.
Is the fixed draw in good condition? If you think it should be replaced, let me know the length of sling and I will put a replacement on. And I will also bring two more q-links for the anchors (if I make it there, that is).
Just in case my partners do not wish to follow Cereal Killer, do you know if I can get to this climb from the anchors of Scene of A Climb?
Thanks again,
Soon |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 16, 2010
| Soon, yes you can get there from Scene. I put a bolt above it's anchors for protecting this way. The fixed sling was a 2 footer, bright red last time I saw it. It would be nicer to have one that blends in with the tan rock better.
Some beta: Move around some. The most direct way is not the easiest. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 16, 2010
| Cool thanks for being willing to fix up the gear a little... i think 2 quick links on each anchor would be best if you plan to do it...
I got to the anchor at the ledge from Armed and Dangerous i just broke left before the roof... so you have a few options :) |
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Apr 11, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b
| cool route, we did this and the other 2 climbs to the left yesterday. |
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